The one-day public transport strike in France this week didn't deter more than 1,000 guests at the Dior show, the first catwalk event to be held in the newly restored Grand Palais in Paris.
Built in l900 for the World Fair along with the Eiffel Tower, it is the largest ironwork and glass structure in the world. Used as a public exhibition centre for over a century, it has been closed since l993. Its renovation has cost more than €70 million.
Under the building's massive glass cupola and with a front-row guest list that included American actresses Lucy Liu, Rachel Weisz and Sharon Stone, the 47-year-old star of Basic Instinct, the new face of Dior, the collection opened with a low-key but lovely line-up of flesh-toned "nude" dresses of tulle and chiffon with delicate, sensuous overlays of black lace.
Though lighting was dramatic and sound effects deafening, the restraint of the collection downplayed the grandeur of its setting, though a spangled trench coat flaunted that extra bit of glamour.
Apart from splashes of green, pink and yellow introduced towards the end, it was as if John Galliano rubbed out colour from his palette for the first time, making frail models with unkempt hair look even more fragile than they were.
The finale of tented and smocked organza shirts and dresses that seemed several sizes too big added to the waif-like effect; many thought the handbags the strongest-looking items in the show.
"Paris is all about spectacle," commented an industry insider who has just moved from Italy to the French capital.
"In Milan, it's more about identifying trends."
Husband-and-wife team Marithe and François Girbaud are one of the commercial stalwarts of Paris Fashion Week that follow trends - a pair who know how to cut a mean jacket.
They have a following in Ireland through Diffusion in Clontarf, a long-time stockist of their polished rock 'n' roll clothes.
Their show, set in a green Perspex maze with wind machines, featured long, curvy jackets worn either over slouchy jeans bedecked with jewellery or modern laser-cut laced skirts.
A pinstripe suit was shaken up with a frilled jacket and combat-shaped trousers, pantaloons were teamed with waistcoats and, for summer, organdie gypsy dresses in light, floral embroideries were sweet, fresh and cool as a breeze.
In an old garage near the Bastille, Véronique Branquinho held firm to her feminine aesthetic based on menswear tailoring, but new this season was graceful caping whether on the back of a rugged parka or a landscape print silk dress. It made a black shirtwaister look almost like a graduation gown. Fine bell-shaped knits and pleated skirts were accessorised with silk leggings.
