Bustles and boaters reJoyce in Bloomsday sun

It seemed somewhat churlish to ask whether one had read the book or not. Especially when those around you were munching on gorgonzola sandwiches and quaffing wine in front of a giant green Molly Bloom on stilts.

Indeed, it seemed Edwardian bustles and straw hats were more the mark of one's Joycean credentials as crowds gathered in the sun outside the Joyce Centre in Dublin today to mark the Bloomsday centenary.

It's hard to imagine what Joyce himself would have made of it - especially with a breakfast roll and a pint of Guinness costing €12 - but most were convinced he would have appreciated the pageantry.

Not least one individual, who stood alongside a large placard of a copyright sign, shouting at people to "move along" and saying "there's nothing to see here".

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He claimed to be a member of the copyright police, deployed to protect Joyce from being abused. Obviously not a fan of the current Joyce estate, he said "using Joyce for fun! Now that can never be allowed".

Elsewhere actors clad in full Edwardian regalia played out scenes from the book. Down the street, an authentic Punch and Judy show, replete with gruesome hangings and vicious beatings, kept children and adults enthralled.

According to Met Éireann, the weather on this day in 1904 was cool and breezy with a temperature of about 16 degrees, nothing as pleasant as the sunny 24 degrees predicted for today.


Most of all, people just stood around watching the costumes and sampling the delicacies.

Amy Mims, a writer from Greece, said she was glad to be in Ireland for Bloomsday and particularly happy to see "local people acting and participating", which she said, Joyce would have wanted.

Brid Cahir from Terenure said she thought Joyce would have loved the celebrations in honour of his book, especially because they were available to ordinary people.

Nancy and Kathleen from Chicago said they were in "the perfect place at the perfect time". They described themselves as big Joyce fans who had come to Dublin especially for Bloomsday.

Deirdre and Sue from Sandymount admitted they had not read the book but as "inhabitants of the city" they just wanted to celebrate the day.

Frances Devlin-Glass from Melbourne, whose play is part of the Rejoyce 2004 events, said the celebrations were "wild and wonderful".

Her friend Dot Hutton, also from Melbourne, said Dubliners spoke the language of Joyce and it was exciting for her to hear it all around.

Earlier President Mary McAleese attended a special Bloomsday VIP breakfast at the centre.

Breakfast diners were entertained by readings from Ulyssesby former TV host Gay Byrne, playwright Gerry Stembridge and musician Ronnie Drew.

It is not recorded as to whether Mrs Aleese relished "the inner organs of beasts and fowls" as Bloom had done 100 years previously.

As noon approached, people began to disperse for Davy Byrne's pub on Duke Street, where Leopold Bloom had a glass of Burgundy and a gorgonzola sandwich for his lunch.

The events will continue all day, culminating in a street theatre spectacle this evening from 8 p.m. to 10 pm. under the Spire on O'Connell Street in Dublin city centre.

Eoin Burke-Kennedy

Eoin Burke-Kennedy

Eoin Burke-Kennedy is Economics Correspondent of The Irish Times