John Rocha presented his menswear range alongside his autumn/winter collection for women in the millennium wing of the National Gallery in Dublin last night to an audience of about 300 people, writes Deirdre McQuillan, Fashion Editor
The collection of formal suiting for Debenhams includes a classic mix of two- and three-button jackets with wide- or straight-leg trousers in striped wool flannel, salt-and-pepper tweed and chalk stripes.
"It's about making men look cool, not silly," Rocha said. "It's back to beautiful basics that are timeless, but at the same time comfortable. Men like clothes they can wear to work and afterwards. They don't want things to be complicated."
Prices for suits range from €350-€420.
Conservative in approach, but not in its contemporary, relaxed styling - a pinstripe suit was shown with a slouchy lambswool scarf - the collection was a contrast to the ornate womenswear which made lavish use of handwork and embroidery like broken lace, crochet and patchwork embellishment.
In the same familiar Rocha monochrome fabrics brightened with occasional colour, the women's collection took liberties with classic military tailoring with greatcoats, flap front buttoned trousers and cropped jackets. Leather was shredded for elaborate shoulder décor or on handbags.
A romantic black lace dress was accessorised with arm-length black wooden bracelets, while ankle socks, brogues and African-style neckpieces added an offbeat air.
"The idea for this collection all started a year ago in London when I saw an exhibition of Peter Beard's photographs of Africa," said Rocha who now provides four collections annually for Debenhams as well as other design commissions for jewellery, glass and interiors.
In November he moves premises to a townhouse in Ely Place, Dublin.
