A moving experience in Moone

Ireland's magnificent high crosses are among the most beautiful legacies of its Christian past

Ireland's magnificent high crosses are among the most beautiful legacies of its Christian past. Carved from various stones, including sandstone and granite, they also represent an important contribution to the sculptural art of medieval Europe. About 200 of these remain, in varying condition, many of them decorated with scriptural scenes. This iconography has been meticulously analysed by Dr Peter Harbison in his definitive study, The High Crosses of Ireland (Bonn, 1992), and by others, including the pioneering Francoise Henry.

In recent years, several crosses, such as the Cross of the Scriptures, circa AD 901 at Clonmacnoise, Co Offaly, the Cashel cross and the 12th-century cross at Tuam, Co Galway, have been moved indoors to protect them from further erosion by weathering or, in the case of the Market Cross at Kells, from further damage by passing trucks. A resin copy of the Cross of the Scriptures at Clonmacnoise is surprisingly convincing. Strong cases have been made for moving crosses indoors nearby and leaving such replicas at the original site - rather than transporting them to distant museums. A case in point is the extremely vulnerable sandstone high cross on the Columban monastic site at Durrow, Co Offaly.

Another cross which has been moved is one of the most unusual of all, the elegant, distinctive St Colmcille's Cross at Moone, Co Kildare. In 1995, it was moved from a site in a small churchyard to the south of the ruined church, and re-erected inside it. Plans have been discussed as to the eventual re-roofing of the 10th-century church, including suggestions, according to Miriam Clyne, an archaeologist who worked on the recent excavations, for the use of a glass or Perspex roof.

The ancient monastic site at Moone, off a small side-road in Co Kildare, remains a peaceful one, with a glimpse of the 15th-century tower of Moone Castle in the background. It was reputedly founded by St Colmcille in the early 6th century. The Columban link between Moone and the saint is not as definite as that with Durrow, Co Offaly, but it is a strong one. The two summer seasons of excavation, in 1998 and 1999, produced exciting results, particularly in the unearthing of church walls.

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The tall, slender cross is carved in granite, as are all the crosses of the Barrow Valley, including that of Castledermot, also in Co Kildare. Although it looks so serene, the 9th-century cross at Moone appears not to have enjoyed an undisturbed history. Indeed, it was found buried in the ground in 1835, and the base and head were pieced together and re-erected in 1850. In that far shorter form, it was to stand for close on 50 years. However, the missing shaft was unearthed by chance when a grave was being dug. In 1893, the cross, now complete, was erected, its true height restored. It stands 7.04 metres high, and only the West Cross at Monasterboice, Co Louth, is taller. There is also part of a second cross at Moone, consisting of three carved, granite fragments cemented together.

The site remains dominated by the famous cross, unique for the naive simplicity and curious sophistication of its geometrical decoration, which was possibly influenced by metalwork designs. Among the most famous of its wondrous panels is that of the 12 Apostles as stylised square figures, shown in three rows of four on the west face of the base, and positioned below the Crucifixion. On the south face are further superb panels: the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes depicted by five round loaves, with two fish facing one another above. Also included are two eel-like fish. The Flight into Egypt is also shown on this side. Other representations include The Fall of Adam and Eve, the Sacrifice of Isaac and Daniel in the Lion's Den.

When it stood in the small churchyard, the cross was further dramatically enhanced by the subtle sunlight that at certain times illuminated the remarkable panels. Few sights in Ireland are finer than the sharp winter sunlight highlighting stone carvings.

In its new, sheltered position within the church, the Moone High Cross will not benefit so much from the play of the light. It will, however, have a greater chance of survival. Either way, it remains an object of extraordinary grace as well as a powerful statement of faith which also testifies to the genius of the ancient stonemasons.

Eileen Battersby

Eileen Battersby

The late Eileen Battersby was the former literary correspondent of The Irish Times