TravelIt's Christmas

Markets in Vienna or Christmas at The Shelbourne? 10 holiday escapes over the festive season

Shake up your usual Yuletide routine with these options, from off-grid cabins to grande dame hotels, and from lighthouses to pet-friendly retreats

Vienna Christmas Market
Vienna Christmas Market

SJ Schooner

Co Donegal

For those seeking an alternative Christmas, somewhere authentic and sustainable in splendid isolation, think about one of the lighthouse properties in the Irish Landmark Trust portfolio, from Galley Head in Co Cork to SJ Schooner at St John’s Point Lighthouse, which takes in views across Donegal Bay towards Sligo. It sleeps four, with one double room and one twin room. Spend time exploring the hidden bays and mountains nearby or curling up by the fire with a good book – pack or gift the new children’s book The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Irish Lighthouses by David Hare, Gill Books, €22; which makes fascinating reading for all the family. A four-night stay, December 23th-27th, is €922. irishlandmark.com

Samsú

Co Dublin
Samsú cabins include a phone lockbox, film camera, cassette player, journals, sleep sprays and a map of the surrounding area
Samsú cabins include a phone lockbox, film camera, cassette player, journals, sleep sprays and a map of the surrounding area

For a luxurious off-grid Christmas, Samsú provides beautifully designed cabins in nature, just 60 minutes from Dublin. It was founded by Rosanna Irwin, after a transformative camping experience on the Danish island of Samsø. The name Samsú represents “the feeling of contentment in the present moment evoked by simple pleasures, often enjoyed with warm blankets and surrounded by nature”, she says. Sounds cosy. The cabins are powered by solar energy; guests receive an analogue kit on arrival, including a phone lockbox, film camera, cassette player, journals, sleep sprays and a map of the surrounding area. Prices start at €195 per night and include a king-sized bed, logs for the fire and locally roasted coffee. Vouchers are also available from €50 to €750, which can be redeemed for stays in any Samsú cabin. Of these vouchers, Rosanna says: “For the person who has everything, give the gift of rest in nature.” samsu.ie

The Old Inn

Crawfordsburn, Co Down
The Old Inn restaurant
The Old Inn restaurant

The Old Inn is one of the oldest hotels in Ireland, dating from 1614. It was a favourite haunt of writer CS Lewis, who honeymooned there. It is now a boutique hotel, part of the Galgorm group, which means guests can expect excellent spa facilities and dining options. At Christmas it’s particularly atmospheric, thanks to its decor and sense of history. Until Christmas, an overnight stay is priced from €161.18 per person sharing, but if you want to go the whole hog, then try its Merry Little Christmas package – a two-day escape from Christmas Eve to St Stephen’s Day, which includes good food, good fizz and good times. On check-in, there are cocktails and canapés, as well as access to the tranquil outdoor Treetop Spa, overlooking Crawfordsburn Forest Park. In the evening, guests can expect Christmas carols around the tree accompanied by the local Salvation Army Brass Band, with mulled wine and mince pies, before dinner in the (AA 4-Star Silver) restaurant. There’s also entertainment in The 1614 Bar. On Christmas morning, a Champagne breakfast is the prelude to an optional dip in Helen’s Bay, something of a local tradition, or a brisk beach walk. Father Christmas also does the rounds, delivering presents before a four-course lunch. In the evening, a festive hamper is delivered to each room, and there is more entertainment to enjoy in the bar. A late checkout after a leisurely breakfast on December 26th completes the offer, from €650.69 per person sharing. irelandsbluebook.com

Christmas Markets

Vienna, Austria
Vienna Christmas Market
Vienna Christmas Market

If your idea of Christmas is enjoying some glühwein and shopping, then the Travel Department Christmas market tours will appeal. It offers 19 different destinations – the most popular for market mavens being to Berlin, Budapest, Prague and Vienna. There are departures during November and December, which offer three- and four-night itineraries. Vienna is always magical, but especially so at Christmas; the itinerary includes a stay in a four-star guest house with a guided tour of hot spots such as the Schönbrunn Palace, the Ringstrasse and the Vienna State Opera House. There’s plenty of free time to visit the Christmas markets – the main ones being Christkindlmarkt, Schönbrunn, Belvedere, Am Hof, Maria-Theresien Platz and Karlsplatz, but there are lots of others that aren’t overtly Christmassy. Don’t leave the city without visiting a few of its famous coffee houses (try Demel) and taking in a trio of top art exhibitions: the Chagall exhibition at the Albertina, Gauguin at the Kunstforum, and Rembrandt at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. From €579 including flights and transfers. traveldepartment.com

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Carton House

Co Kildare
Carton House. Photograph: Barry Murphy
Carton House. Photograph: Barry Murphy

As one of Ireland’s most historic and elegant resorts, the Christmas experience at Carton House comes with a choice of accommodation options – between the contemporary and luxurious guest bedrooms of The Garden Wing or a Suite or State Room in the magnificent 18th-century Palladian-style mansion. The four-bedroom Lennox Lodge is also available for Christmas and is ideal for families or groups. Guests can choose to arrive on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day for a two-night stay, from €1,238 per person. A three-night experience is also available from €1,857 per person, arriving on December 24th with a festive afternoon tea served in the impressive Gold Salon on St Stephen’s Day. Lots of treats are included in these offers, from mince pies on arrival to Christmas stockings filled with surprises. Guests can enjoy morning swims in the wellness suite, a stroll or cycle around the 1,100 acre estate to work up an appetite, or simply savour the splendour of the hotel, which dates from 1739. cartonhouse.com

The Shelbourne

Dublin
The Shelbourne Hotel. Photograph: Barry Murphy
The Shelbourne Hotel. Photograph: Barry Murphy

Dublin’s grande dame has been celebrating her 200th Christmas this year and comes into her own in the festive season, when the hotel is often a favourite meeting point for family and friends to celebrate the season over a festive afternoon tea. Upgrade to a one-night Christmas Day stay with breakfast and lavish five-course Christmas lunch or dinner. This starts from €1,230 per room in a deluxe king room based on two people sharing (€125 per child under 12, €150 per child under 16 sharing a parent’s room) and includes a visit from Santa in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge. theshelbourne.com

Mount Juliet Estate

Co Kilkenny
Mount Juliet Estate offers a relaxing time after the excitement of Christmas
Mount Juliet Estate offers a relaxing time after the excitement of Christmas

For the hazy days in-between Christmas and New Year known as Twixmas, Mount Juliet Estate offers midweek stays that allow guests to enjoy a relaxing time together after the excitement of Christmas. A two-day stay with breakfast each day starts from €199 per person sharing with check in on December 26 available. A must-see is Mount Juliet’s famous Gingerbread Village installation, while for the sporty, outdoor pursuits on offer include fishing and falconry, in addition to a state-of-the-art equestrian centre and Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course. mountjuliet.ie

Sheen Falls Lodge

Co Kerry
Sheen Falls Lodge
Sheen Falls Lodge

Could there be anywhere more charming to decompress after Christmas during a three-night Twixmas break from December 27th or 28th? Against the backdrop of Kenmare Bay, with views of glistening waterfalls and (possibly snow-capped) mountains, there’s plenty of scope for relaxation – from reading in the Library, where books are carefully curated and change regularly, to enjoying its Easanna Wellness & Spa, where treatments are offered from spa brands such as Seabody, Elemis and Ground Wellbeing. The hotel estate spans 300 acres; activities include falconry, clay pigeon shooting, horse riding, fishing and scenic walking trails. The Ring of Kerry Golf Club is just five miles from the hotel, which offers complimentary transfers for guests who want to play the 18-hole, par-72 course, which is set between the Caha Mountains and MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. Don’t leave without sampling the Mediterranean menu at the club house’s Nua Vista restaurant. This package includes a breakfast each morning with two dinners – at The Falls Restaurant and The Stables Brasserie & Bar. Prices start from €1,975 for two adults sharing a Classic Room, with one child under 12 included. sheenfallslodge.ie

Springfort Hall Country House Hotel

Co Cork
Springfort Hall Country House Hotel
Springfort Hall Country House Hotel

Its woodland setting, warm hospitality, fabulous food (order the signature dish of slow-cooked feather blade beef) and dog-friendly accommodation makes this period country house hotel a comforting option for Twixmas. In addition to 51 bedrooms, there are nine luxury log cabins. Each has its own balcony with views over the garden guaranteeing privacy and shelter for long lazy mornings and afternoons. The log cabins are available from December 28th, for €200 per night for a one-bedroom cabin, which sleeps two, and €350 for a two-bedroom cabin, sleeping four. An old stone cottage has also been renovated, part of the hotel’s 40th anniversary last year, as have the existing bedrooms. The cottage has two spacious bedrooms with a private courtyard. As for pet lovers, with 17 acres of beautiful grounds for walks and its own little stream, this location promises a winter wonderland for all the family. springfort-hall.com

The Lodge at Dun Alluin

Scotland
Dun Aluinn in Aberfeldy. Photograph: Ruth Maria Murphy
Dun Aluinn in Aberfeldy. Photograph: Ruth Maria Murphy

Stylish, sustainable and in the Scottish Highlands, The Lodge at Dun Alluin is near the artistic community of Aberfeldy and will fulfil those dreaming of a Hogmanay escape. The lodge, a former 1950s postwar prefabricated bungalow, is in a free-to-roam area so ideal for hiking enthusiasts. It was redesigned by Irish couple John Burke and Susie Whyte, who reimagined the space as an American shack with an emphasis on outdoor living. It provides a cosy inspiring retreat. The interior design reflects the nuanced colours of the landscape, and the superb decking area offers sweeping views across the river Tay, where a fire pit is in situ for late-night chats. The only neighbours you’ll see or hear are the resident owls, pheasants and visiting deer. Low-level lighting was installed on the perimeter to promote the dark sky initiative to help resident wildlife, and the perimeter has been rewilded. John and Susie received a Gold Green Tourism award for Dun Aluinn, an exclusive rental near The Lodge, from where guests can enjoy highland safaris, fishing trips, whiskey tastings and more. They also recently opened a three-bedroom Church Tower in nearby Crieff, within walking distance of Scotland’s oldest distillery, The Glenturret, which also has a Michelin-star restaurant. The cost of the lodge, which sleeps eight guests, for the Christmas period is £1,500 (about €1,800) per day with a minimum four-night stay. dunalliun.com

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