Microblading was a trend that surged strongly and swiftly about 10 to 15 years ago. Like many others who were not naturally blessed in the brow department, I rushed towards microblading with open arms, desperate to have hair-like strokes in places where I didn’t have any actual hair.
I had my eyebrows microbladed several times over the years before the inevitable passage of time led to a blob-like ink build-up that was not cute, or indeed helpful when the goal was to look fresh and youthful. Thick, dark brows can inadvertently age us, and that was exactly what I was left with – very dark, very thick brows.
A couple of years ago I decided to remove my microblading. At the time, this wasn’t an easy option. Now, more places are offering the service, including Dublin Makeup Academy, which is where I went to get my brows lasered off. It took several sessions because I’d had them done so many times. The laser removal process is quick – about 20 seconds per eyebrow. It’s also spicy – about an eight out of ten on the discomfort scale. It costs around €130 per session, depending on where you go.
Now, a year after my last laser removal, I’m faced with a conundrum. What do I do next? I’m back where I was in terms of having little hair at the front and tail of my brows, and I’m not convinced that microblading – much as it’s progressed since I first had it – is the path I want to go down.
To explore my options and get some guidance, I pay a visit to brow expert and owner of Dublin Makeup Academy Kim O’Sullivan. While there, I also decide to have a tint and shape, curious to see if subtle maintenance could make a difference.
“The first thing to address is that, for most of our clients, no matter how well the treatment is done, everything’s going to blur and migrate over time,” says O’Sullivan, her face inches from mine as she starts shaping my sparse brows.
“I have clients who might email years later, and we’ll decide – okay, let’s just laser it all off and start fresh. You’ll notice a huge difference in the healed results now because pigments have evolved. Even in the last three years, there are no metals in them, so you have reassurance they won’t migrate like before.
“The microblades we use now are different too – so tiny and slim – and the technique has changed. We space the strokes differently, so migration can’t really happen any more.”
O’Sullivan sees many clients who want to remove the remaining blurred, blob-like or greyed-out pigment with laser, but she’s keen to emphasise the potential outcomes – because not all are wanted.
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“Sometimes, yellow or green tones will appear in the brows after repeated removal sessions. It’s just the way the pigments have broken down over time. It’s important to stop laser removal at the right point, specifically when yellow or green appear, and focus on tinting and maintenance rather than trying to completely erase everything.”
O’Sullivan explains that all brow tattoos are made up of primary colours: red, yellow, and blue. If your hair is dark, the pigments used will lean heavier towards red and blue tones; if you’re fair or blonde, the pigment will lean heavier towards yellow – and the latter cannot be removed past a certain point.
So what are the options for clients who find themselves with brows that are now bright yellow because of the primary underlying pigment that was used?
“The first option, from our perspective, is education – showing clients the most suitable products, how to fill their brows in day-to-day, and leaning into regular treatments like tinting. Salon-grade tint can very successfully counteract yellow or green tones, depending on the original ink and metals used. And if someone has had their brows fully lasered off and has little natural hair, it’s about committing to maintenance – seeing your brow artist every seven or eight weeks for a tint and shape to help with growth.”
O’Sullivan adds that while a shape has some longevity, the tint does not – lasting just a few days. But as she points out, it gives you a guide. “When you’re filling in your brows post-tint, you’re able to see the shape more clearly. I often find that our post-laser removal clients are really surprised at how much natural hair they actually have. People don’t realise how much brow they have until it’s tinted professionally, and then it’s easier for them to lean into their natural brows.”
And of course, microblading again is always an option. “The technology and techniques we use now are so advanced compared to what they were even a couple of years ago,” says O’Sullivan. “But if you’re not sure what approach to take, it’s always a good idea to book a consultation with an experienced brow artist to get the right advice and go from there.”
This week I’m using... Mimétique Skin Restore Cream
A new French skincare brand aims to create products that mimic what is naturally found in the skin – hence the name Mimétique. There are several great products, but I’m particularly enamoured with Skin Restore Cream (€69 for 50ml from phare.store). It’s a light, nourishing cream that works to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce redness, plump and hydrate.
