As European Capital of Culture 2008, Liverpool is dancing to a lively tune as it shows off all it has to offer, writes Tony Clayton-Lea
'ABOVE US only sky" is a line from the John Lennon song Imagine, and as you walk into the compact arrivals hall of Liverpool's John Lennon Airport, you might just feel as if you're treading on holy ground. The legacy of The Beatles is sacrosanct and weighs heavy around the city's collective neck. Ireland is to blame, of course, for if it wasn't for the Famine in the mid-1800s - and its accompanying mass immigration to the UK and far beyond - you can be certain that Liverpool would be a different place with a different accent.
Indeed, the similarities between Liverpool, European Capital of Culture 2008, and Dublin/Ireland, are uncanny. Paul Du Noyer, in his excellent book, Liverpool: Wondrous Place, writes: "The Irish shaped many facets of Scouse character - a taste for defiance and a subversive way with verbal ingenuity among them - but their greatest contribution was the view of music as one of life's necessities."
Truly, Liverpool skips to the same beat as Dublin does. There is a compulsion to perform and to engage. The wit might be dry but it's always on tap, and participation levels remain at an all time high.
Religion also plays a part. As the thousands of Irish famine victims huddled into Liverpool and its suburbs to work on the docks, tunnels and railways, Catholic churches were built.
In the 1840s Liverpool already had a large Catholic population, and as the decades passed the Irish elements of the city - by now stitched into the fabric of the place - altered the local politics to the extent that politicians changed religion in order to grab the Catholic vote.
Happily, sectarianism is not an issue. My guide explained that in Liverpool you should relax an don't worry. People are people and let them get on with it.
Another example of Liverpool's lassez faire attitude came with an anecdote. A man asked my guide at one of the Tourist Information Centres soem tiem ago where precisely was Liverpool's gay quarter.
Taken aback by the question the guide informed the man that there was no gay quarter in the city because "we don't put people in boxes in Liverpool - we're all equal here, luv."
This year Liverpool is pulling out all the stops as European Capital of Culture, with a host of attractions.
The best family-oriented visitor attraction is the Albert Dock with the likes of The Beatles Story and Tate Liverpool tending to most ages and cultural tastes. By day, it's a casual tourist experience ideal for wandering around in. At night, Albert Dock throbs.
Bars such as Baby Cream and the Pan-American Club are the kind of places that inject a few volts to your system. Plush, relaxed, lots of exposed skin (even early in the year) and cocktails to go - just remember not to forget where you left your hotel.
In Liverpool you can also take in some of the best architecture in the UK. Unlike other comparable cities, notably Manchester, Glasgow and Newcastle, Liverpool - whose waterfront region was awarded World Heritage Site status in 2004 by Unesco - has inherited virtually nothing from its medieval past.
It is, effectively, a modern city, a creation from the 18th century onwards. Because of its history as a city driven by industry and commerce, older buildings were regularly bulldozed (an occurrence still occasionally rendered, to the regret of many). What is here, though, is grand and cautiously imposing.
You can tell a city's rising importance in commercial terms by its hotels. The Radisson, Marriott, Hilton and Malmaison chains already have a presence at the higher scale of the market, while a Jurys Inn will soon open its doors.
Yes, there are still niggling items of bureaucracy and a lack of aspirational city planning to sort out. The city is still fighting levels of unemployment but there's little doubt that international recognition of Liverpool's cultural importance has widened its appeal to visitors from all over the world.
Like most major UK cities, (the exception being London), Liverpool is negotiable by foot. North John Street, Victoria Street, Ranelagh Street and St John's Lane surround its core pedestrian centre.
Within and edging onto these streets are the main shopping areas housing all the usual high street stores with all the usual sales.
Particularly for this year as culture capital, optimism is all over the place and under achievement is fast disappearing. Above us, only sky? Below us, the world at our feet, more like.
If you haven't paid a visit to Liverpool yet, or for quite a while, then perhaps it's time you did.
Go highlights:
Niki De Saint Phalle, Liverpool Tate, Albert DockThe debut UK exhibition of French artist Niki De Saint Phalle is a fiercely provocative mixture of paintings, sculpture and film. Fans of Norman Rockwell might wish to steer clear of this one. Runs until May 5th.
Liverpool Sound, Anfield Stadium
Following the lacklustre performance of Ringo Starr at the opening of the city's Echo Arena in January, it's up to fellow ex-Beatle Paul McCartney to deliver the musical goods. As yet, there are no details about the other acts, but word on the Liverpudlian streets is that it is going to be a cracker. The concert will be televised live. Runs on June 1st.
The Beat Goes On, World Museum
This is a multimedia showcase of the city's music scene over the past 60 years. That means everyone from Gerry and the Pacemakers and Echo and the Bunnymen to Candie Payne. Runs from July 12th to November 1st.
Liverpool Children's Festival, Cultural Quarter
This multimedia/multi- performance/multi-workshop event celebrates the diverse heritage of the city. Fun for all the family? With bells on. Runs on August 8th.
Liverpool Irish Festival, various venues
The connections between Liverpool and Ireland are many, and while all the events in this 12-day festival haven't yet been released, we can confirm that Christy Moore performs at the Philharmonic Hall on October 11th. Runs from October 8th-19th.
Go stay
There are many hotels in the city that cater for all depths of pocket. If you want to give yourself a treat, though - particularly if you're a music fan - check into The Hard Days Night Hotel, a recently opened £20 million Beatles- themed boutique hotel that is located in a listed building mere seconds away from the Cavern Pub. Don't allow the "theme" aspect to put you off. This is a surprisingly smart and sophisticated place. Doubles from £170 (€225).
Go eat and drink
Bars and nightclubs can be separated into two obvious areas: traditional and contemporary. Cleverly fusing the two is Alma De Cuba, Seel Street, a Cuban/Miami inspired bar/restaurant housed in what was once St Peter's Catholic Church. From buzzy tapas atmosphere downstairs to candle-lit a la carte menu on the mezzanine, this joint is jumping in style. Two traditional pubs worth a visit are The Grapes (Mathew Street; a grimy but renowned venue steeped in Beatles lore) and Thomas Rigby's (Dale Street; one of the city's oldest inns that boasts a selection of over 50 European beers).
Go tips
Be aware that Dublin airport and John Lennon airport security personnel differ in their approach to carry-on luggage. On the journey from Dublin to Liverpool, I had a wheelie carry-on suitcase and a shoulder brief case. On the return journey from Liverpool to Dublin, I was stopped at security and asked to check in my wheelie case.
A bus to the city centre, outside the Arrivals Hall, costs £1.50 (€1.98). A taxi from the rank, also outside the Arrivals Hall, cost £20 (€26.50).