At this time of year, the route to Knockmealdown will be awash with verdant hues, writes TONY DOHERTY
THE KNOCKMEALDOWN Mountains, on the border between Waterford and Tipperary, are for all seasons. In winter you’ll get snow, if you’re lucky, and the ridge provides safe walking. In spring the ploughed fields of the Golden Vale and Blackwater valley, over which the mountains preside, spring into life and add a variety of verdant hues to the landscape. In late spring the lower slopes burst into life with great swathes of purple rhododendron, while in autumn the bare moorland is transformed by the flowering of the heathers.
My favourite route is to start from the Gap, the high point on the R668, which cuts through the mountains. Follow the ridge and descend to Mount Melleray Abbey. This involves leaving a car at either end, which is well worth organising, as the route through the abbey grounds is special. If this isn’t possible, just amble along the ridge as far as you wish and then retrace your steps.
From the car park at the Gap, follow the well-defined path that runs straight uphill alongside a low ditch to the summit of Sugarloaf (663m). The summit is marked by a cairn of old red sandstone (which is actually purple).
A wander around the summit gives you a view down into the coom of Bay Lough. Below you lies the Golden Vale, bounded by the Galtees to the north and the Comeraghs to the east. If the rocks are wet, take care as you drop down from Sugarloaf to the col. Keeping to the track beside the wall, head for the summit of Knockmealdown (794m), the highest peak in Co Waterford. This is a good lunch spot, as you sit looking down on the River Blackwater as it turns south and flows through its gorge on its way to Youghal. Continuing to follow the boundary wall, you’ll come to a steep drop down to the col, but it’s an easier pull back up to Knocknagnauv (655m). Now strike out across the moor for the summit of Knocknafallia (668m).
You can now begin the descent towards the Abbey. The best course is to follow the grid line 09 south as far as the 300m contour. There is a confusion of tracks shown on the map, which are best ignored. Just below you will see a broad gravel track. Drop down to this and turn left through a five-bar gate into the forest. Turn left at the first junction and continue down until you come to a set of steps with a wooden banister on your right. It’s about 100m or so after a large circular turning area. Down the steps is a narrow sunken track that leads to a wooden stile. Turn right on to the forest track and continue downhill, turning left at the ruined barn. Then you’ll come to a metal gate with a stone stile on the side. Farther down on your left is a set of steps with a green metal banister. This leads you into a wonderful woodland walk, which leads down to the abbey. There are a series of stepped artificial lakes, picnic benches and banks of rhododendron. When you get to the barns at the rear of the abbey, don’t cut across the concrete farmyard – keep to the path around the edge.
Round off the day with some spiritual sustenance, before heading for pub and grub. It is well worthwhile to listen to the monks singing at vespers at 5.45pm each day.
Knockmealdown, Co Waterford
StartThe Gap, on R668. Grid reference 030 100.
FinishMount Melleray Abbey. Grid reference 097 038.
How to get thereThe Gap: from Clogheen or Lismore on the R668. From Cappaquin on the R669. Mount Melleray: from the Gap, take the R669 at first junction down the hill, then second third-class road on left.
TimeFive or six hours.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 74.
Distance13km.
Total ascent950m.
SuitabilityFull route is moderate. Map, compass, warm clothing, good boots and rain gear are essential.
RefreshmentsThere's a tea shop and guest house at the abbey. The Cat pub and restaurant is down the road.