GO DRIVE:Fed up with flying JUSTIN COMISKEYand his young family decided it was time for something different and took the scenic route to Rome through six countries and some 2,500km
YOU WOULD expect a few are-we-there-yets driving a family of four kids under 12 from Dublin to Rome but the first came barely 50 metres from our house en route to Dún Laoghaire – two minutes away. “Are we there yet?” enquired a voice from the back of our VW Transporter but, as the 10-day trip across the UK, Holland, Germany, Austria and Italy progressed, it was a question rarely posed again as this introduction to the Continent tickled the youngsters’ considerable curiosity.
The journey, borne from a desire for something different after years flying to the eternal city to see the in-laws, started on the Stena Explorer(HSS). As I drove up the gangway – secretly praying that the satnav wouldn't let me down and that I'd deliver my most precious cargo to their destination while driving a left-handed vehicle on the Continent for the first time – I felt elated that 10 months of planning was coming to fruition and that our first real adventure as a family was about to begin.
And it didn’t take long for the fun to begin. Shortly after departure I asked at ship’s reception if we could get a tour of the bridge to see how this most futuristic of ferries is sailed. We got the nod an hour later and the kids exclaimed land-ahoy as Wales came into view. The ship’s second-in-command explained what the multitude of screens and gadgets did – the bridge was like an enormous cockpit of a fighter plane – and he proudly noted how we were now at top speed, an impressive 40 knots (about 74km/h) sending tonnes of water hurtling to the rear every second.
“Which one of the buttons is the horn?” asked one of my daughters. “That one,” indicated the second-in-command and, before I could stop her, she pressed it. BLLLAAAAAAAA! The few seagulls flying alongside almost fainted at the powerful blast, as I nearly did with embarrassment, and as the trawlers ahead powerboated out of our way, it was a good time to retreat back to the lounge.
We overnighted in a cheap BB in Hollyhead and were on the road to Harwich (northeast of London) early the next day. Leaving early allowed us to clock up some distance before the kids were really awake and three hours later we’d covered the 265km to Drayton Manor near Tamworth, a large amusement park north of Birmingham. Now half-way to Harwich and with the ferry to Hook of Holland leaving at 11.15pm, we could relax and enjoy ourselves.
We choose Drayton Manor because it’s home to Thomas Land – a themed fun park based on the Thomas the Tank Engine TV series. My four-year-old is a big Thomas fan and he burst through security staff to see his favourite cartoon characters. At Knapford station we bordered Thomas’s carriages, Annie and Clarabelle, for a ride around the park before trying all its 12 rides. Our favourite was the Troublesome Trucks Rollercoaster, closely followed by Jeremy’s Flying Academy and Cranky’s Drop Tower. The rides were milder versions of the adrenalin-fuelled madness taking place across the way at Drayton Manor proper where machines like Apocalypse, Maelstrom and Pandemonium were thrilling their customers and making me feel faint at the thought of giving them a go.
Five hours later, the kids exhausted with running from ride to ride, is was time to hit the road. The next 296km, covered in three hours, took us away from the built-up Midlands across the pleasant countryside of eastern England. We planned on having dinner in Cambridge but caution got the better of us so we dined at a Little Chef en route and arrived in Harwich with time to spare. We played tip rugby in the car park before boarding – much to the amusement of a travelling Dutch soccer team – and this tired out the troops so that they were asleep before the Stena Hollandicaleft for Hook of Holland.
The ship’s “wake-up call” over the PA at 6.15am the next morning – encouraging passengers to the restaurants for breakfast – was irritating but the kids quickly learned that nearby Rotterdam is one of the busiest ports in Europe will all manner of vessels competing for space in congested waters.
We disembarked on schedule at 7.45am and it was time to drive on the “wrong” side of the road but, barely a minute later, we were waved down and I was breathalysed. I’d been warned that the Dutch police are merciless when it comes to road safety and I guess the check point was about re-enforcing this to newly-arrived visitors.
After breakfast with an old friend near Rotterdam, we hit the road for the village of Rauischholzhausen, just outside the university town of Marburg in the state of Hessen – right in the centre of Germany. The 472km took longer than expected, mainly due to pedestrian speed restrictions in Holland, but this did allow the kids to observe just how flat The Netherlands is and play counting games with windmills. After crossing into Germany things quickened up considerably. With no speed limit on autobahns – except where indicated – cars hurtled by like bats out of hell. Even a Hitler-era VW Beetle passed us out!
It was a relief to reach Rauischholzhausen in the late afternoon. We were staying with an old friend and his partner who are restoring a large 18th century U-shaped Fachwerk (half-timber) house in the pretty red-roofed village so typical of this part of Mittelhessen. Over the next few days we enjoyed walks around the village’s beautiful schloss (castle), explored the surrounding countryside typified by rolling fields and forested hillsides, and visited many pretty half-timber villages (like Amöneburg, with its delightful square and hilltop views).
A highlight of our stay was an afternoon in Marburg. Its Oberstadt, or upper town, is one of a handful of largely intact sizeable towns in Germany – all half-timber houses and narrow cobbled streets rising steeply to an impressive hilltop castle. A must-see is the beautiful Marktplatz where artisan food producers sell cheese and fine sausage. Before leaving, we headed for local institution Café Vetter for “kaffee und kuchen”. While the kids gorged on fine cakes and ice creams, the adults took tea on the terrace and enjoyed the views and period surroundings.
After three nights in Rauischholzhausen, it was time to move on – this time to the sublime Tegernsee valley in the Alps south of Munich. We left early and after 253km broke the journey in the medieval walled town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Bavaria. While immensely pretty, the town’s state of near perfect preservation left you with a feeling that it’s one gigantic photo opportunity.
Back on the autobahn, the kids were thrilled to see high-speed ICE trains – some going as fast as 300km/h – hurtle past on the track parallel to the motorway. Gradually, tall church spires gave way to the onion domes so typical of Ober Bayern (Higher Bavaria) but not before we got a great view of Bayern Munich’s stunning new stadium, the Allianz Arena, while rounding Munich.
Not long after we exited the autobahn for Tegernsee and got our first view of the Alps. And what a dramatic sight they are – rising wall-like from the plains around Munich. Driving the last part of this 307km leg, you could hear cowbells and smell sweet Alpine meadows.
We spent three fabulous days in the lakeside village of Rottach-Egern staying at Hotel Seerose, a small family-run three-star establishment. On our first morning we took a 15-minute cable car ride up the steep slopes of Wallberg (1,722m) – the mountain which dominates the Tegernsee valley – and the kids were open-mouthed at the experience. It was a sunny day and from the top you could see Zugspitze (at 2,962m Germany’s tallest mountain) and Grossglockner in Austria (a 3,798m peak with its own glacier). The kids had great fun watching paragliders taking off as updraughts from the valley make this an ideal launch pad.
Later we relaxed at the local public pool where, for €5 per adult and €3 for kids over six, you got access to a 50-metre outdoor pool, kids’ pool, family pool with slides and a fun revolving current, elevated jacuzzis with lake views and diving boards into Tegernsee lake which, at 18 degrees in late June, is noticeably warmer than the Forty Foot.
The next day we took the train to Munich – a group ticket cost €23 return and it takes an hour each way – to visit the magnificent Deutsches Museum. There, we were exhilarated by its maritime exhibits, including an original U-Boat with its side cut off so you could see in, and astounded by its aeronautical section which included rare second World War aircraft, like the Messerschmitt Me 262 (the world’s first operational jet fighter) and Me 163, and a Junkers Ju 52 cargo plane you could board. There was a special kids’ section, too, which my lot had to be bribed to leave with the promise of doughnuts at a museum cafe. Never, not in 11 years as a parent, had any of my offspring asked to stay in a museum, but the Deutsches Museum changed that – even after four hours touring the place.
All too soon it was time to move on. The next leg of the journey took us 348km over the Alps via the Brenner Pass to Peschiera del Garda at the southern tip of Lake Garda in Italy. The scenery along the way, particularly the Italian Alps, was awesome while Lake Garda is impossibly beautiful in places. Dinner that warm evening overlooking the lake will live long in my memory.
We were up early the next day for the final push to Rome – 524km to the south. Again, an early start broke the back of the journey before 10am and by early afternoon we were swimming in Lago Bracciano – a large lake in a massive volcanic crater 66km north of Rome. And there we stayed till well past dinner time until I finally summoned the nerve to tackle Rome’s modern day chariot races in its law-of-the-jungle traffic before arriving at the in-laws.
By journey’s end we’d had some great laughs, crossed six countries clocking up 2,465km while seeing and doing a helluva lot. More importantly, we’d opened the kids’ eyes to the enormous diversity and possibility of the Continent. Not bad for 10 days – and there’s still the return leg to Dublin through Italy and France to look forward to.
The journey
Distance
2,465km covered on our route across Wales, England, Holland, Germany, Austria and Italy.
Fuel
We spent €330 on diesel for our 1.9-litre VW Transporter.
Motorways
Charges amounted to £10 (€11) in the UK; €15.90 for a 10-day motorway pass in Austria and for the Brenner Pass (this was the cheapest option bought at a kiosk on the Germany/Austria border); and €44.30 for the autostrada in Italy.
Route planning
Viamichelin.com and theaa.com.
Satnav
My TomTom Via 110 worked a treat: it got us in the right lane early at many difficult motorway intersections, particularly in Holland, and there was no arguing over directions either.
Insurance
As our car would be out of Ireland for over 31 days, our insurer, Aviva, required formal notification of this and it then sent us a “green card” which you bring on the journey in addition to your insurance certificate.
We also took out additional cover on our policy called “European breakdown rescue plus”, which provides roadside assistance on any public road in Europe; transport to the nearest garage for repair if Aviva can’t fix your car; and hotel costs and/or alternative transport are covered if repairs aren’t possible or will take more than 12 hours. If repairs can’t be completed before you return, the extra cover pays for one of the following: transport costs to get your car home; travel costs so you can collect your car; or the write-off market value of your car. The extra insurance cost €194 for 12 months.
Travel tips
We brought a cooler box which, via an adapter, was plugged in to the car’s cigarette lighter socket (as was the satnav). This meant we kept down the eating out expenses to just dinner.
Leaving early in the morning on travel days broke the back of the journey while the kids snoozed.
Friends had strongly recommended getting in-car TV screens for the kids but this would have defeated the purpose of the trip which was to give them a taste of the Continent. In fact, they were happily TV-free throughout the journey.
We had our car serviced and got new tyres prior to departure.
Bring a soccer/rugby ball, skipping rope or badminton set to get everyone active at stop-offs en route.
Justin Comiskey and family were guests of Stena Line. Its “Landbridge” from Dublin to Holland costs from €327 (single) or €654 (return) for two adults and two kids plus car any time up to June 30th and midweek July/August. It costs an extra €66 single/€132 return for weekends in July/August. A four-berth cabin on the ferry to Holland is from €91 in June and €113 in July/August. The family were also guests of Drayton Manor – a family day ticket for four costs £98 (€110) which includes access and all rides at Thomas Land, the main fun park, zoo and 4D cinema – and Hotel Seerose in Rottach-Egern, where B&B for a family of four starts at €110.