Was it really that convenient or cheap to haul our clubs to the Costa del Golf when we have great courses on our doorstep, asks MADELEINE LYONS
NOW THE party’s been pooped, and the sheen has gone off “popping” the clubs through the oversize baggage hatch, we can all breathe easy. Yes, yes we know the Costa del Golf in Spain/Portugal/Cape Verde (God help us!) is only a mere three hours away, but how convenient and cheap was it really? Between getting to and from the destination – and air fares for a tenner becoming a thing of the past – it’s probably cheaper now to bring the kids on holidays than your golf clubs.
As one half of a parenting duo pitted daily against two toddlers and a teenager, we jumped at the opportunity to eschew the kids, and bring the clubs. Yes, tie us down and shoot us, we chose hedonistic us time over “quality” kids’ time. But in our defence, at least we stayed in the country.
So on a rare spring-like Friday morning we entered the sunny southeast for a weekend’s golf in Waterford. Not only that, but our final destination could only be reached by ferry. Albeit a two-minute ferry ride, but if you like your travel experiences condensed, this does the job.
Waterford Castle didn’t disappoint. This 16th century home looks like little has changed from its original heyday as seat of the legendary FitzGeralds, right down to the impressive entrance hall dominated by an enormous fireplace. With just 19 rooms, it’s a modest castle with a homely charm. The adjoining bar and dining room date only from the 1870s. Yes, one does begin to feel imperious and giddy as one struts about one’s child-free palace – not a Stik-a-Brik in sight.
We’re shown to our quarters, the Rose Suite. Four poster bed, check. Floor to ceiling bay windows, check. Genuine claw-foot bath, check. Adjoining little room for god knows what, check. Is this really happening? Check.
Off to the golf course, and we meet Mr Marketing for Waterford Castle golf course. Michael Garland is Scottish, but he could well qualify for Mr Marketing for Waterford county. His message is simple. For too long Ireland has been killing itself trying to appeal to Americans by offering links golf, when there’s a far bigger market across the pond, and within Ireland that can’t get enough of parkland golf. So a number of courses in the region got together to come up with some seriously competitive packages that would appeal to travelling golfers. What’s not to like, bring on the golf.
I only had to wait until the second hole for my Tin Cup moment. Three balls and several splashes later, I wondered if the lead weights swinging from my shoulders and hips would ever again work like arms and legs. Three-and-a-half hours later, with the final green barely visible in the dying light, there was plenty of reason to be hopeful at least.
The Des Smyth-designed course is ideal for the medium to high handicapper, with the decency to accommodate shortcomings. There are lots of wide open spaces, and greens were holding up very well for the time of year – no doubt the island’s well water has been working its magic on them. The par three 16th is a beautiful hole, flanking the River Suir and on the other side our next day’s challenge, Faithlegg Golf Club.
There are 48 modern townhouses also situated on the island, and though for sale, some are an “added offering” at Waterford Castle. For a travelling group of golfers, wedding parties, or parents who want to bring their children, they are a good option, offering home comforts and a bit of flexibility.
Dinner that evening in the wood-panelled castle dining room was a testimony to simple food done well. Beef, venison and garden vegetables were locally sourced and packed with flavour. The food had been billed as good and it met all the expectations of a luxury hotel dining experience, right down to the pianist who’s seen it all a thousand times before.
Faithlegg is just a 15-minute spin by car from Waterford Castle. Running late for our tee time, the start was less than illustrious, and it didn’t take long to realise we had entered the major league on this outing. Faithlegg is a challenging course, it’s well designed to maximize its features – from the roll of the land to the mature greenery, every aspect is thought through. There are some really memorable holes and complex greens, and a reasonable degree of forgiveness for the wayward golfer. The hotel offers comfort and style in a Big House setting, but the course is a real highlight.
That evening we hit the bright lights of downtown Waterford, and dinner in the Waterford Tower Hotel. The Bistro is a hopping city centre restaurant. In spite of this, our meals were very good, and service was excellent. There’s a buzz to the place, and a good sense that lots of locals use it for celebration dinners. This would be a good base for a golfing group looking for nightlife as it offers the perfect launch pad onto the city’s other hostelries.
Lots of people had recommended TH Doolin’s for a drink, and while it’s an authentic Irish bar, it smacked of being more a noisy tourist bar than a locals hangout. Further down O’Connell Street, McLoughlins was the genuine article. Not much to look at, but a great atmosphere, good music on the speakers, and friendly locals.
Another find proved to be Katty Barry’s. A deep-seated Munster rugby supporters enclave, even the chat on the street outside among a mix of twentysomething men and women was of rugby – on a non-Six Nations weekend. We’re talking serious diehards here.
Then it was a quick hop into a cab and home to our suite in 15 minutes. Certainly Waterford Castle’s location is unique in that it offers all the pluses of the bright lights, big city vibe, but with the reward of a castle haven at the end. The region is great for golf – without the separation guilt of a short-haul flight.
Madeleine Lyons was a guest of www.discoverireland.ie
Go there
Waterford is 2.5 hours from Dublin by road. Irish Rail and Iarnrod Eireann run regular services to the city from Heuston and Busaras.
Where to stay and play
Where to stay
Waterford Castle, 051-878203, www.waterford castle.com. Spring two night deals available, including one dinner, from €180 (standard room) to €290 (suite) per person sharing.
Faithlegg House Hotel, 051-382000, www.faithlegg.com.Two-night midweek deals available, including one dinner, from €109 per person sharing.
Tower Hotel Waterford. Tel: 051-862300, www. towerhotelwaterford.com Two night breaks available from €89 per person sharing, including one dinner.
Where to play
Waterford Castle,
Faithlegg, and Mount Juliet golf courses have teamed up to offer a Three Club Golf Pass for €150 (a weekend rate supplement applies). Considering the standard of the courses this is a quality deal. Tel: 051-871633, www.waterfordcastle.com.
The Crystal County Golf Circuit features nine Waterford golf courses, each of which is offering four players for the price of three at any tee time. Not half bad for a group planning a trip to the sunny southeast to play a few rounds. www.discoverireland.ie