GO WALK:HERE'S SOMETHING FOR those who are starting to get out walking, but have not yet graduated to any serious climbing. It's a handy, waymarked Fáilte Ireland loop, but it gives you a taste of the real thing, taking you into the midst of Ireland's highest mountain range, the Macgillicuddy's Reeks, a true wilderness landscape of soaring peaks, rugged crags, scree slopes and glacial lakes.
Hiking boots and rain gear are essential, and it is good to carry a snack and some water. It’s a walk of over 6km, with an ascent of about 250m, on terrain that consists of sometimes rough gravel pathways and often very wet grassy bogland. The route should not be attempted in poor weather.
It starts at Cronin’s Yard, where the Cronin family provide delicious teas as well as maps, guide books, parking and even shower facilities for walkers. As you set out, the Reeks form a mountainous wall ahead: they are named after a local Gaelic chieftain of early medieval times, and the name translates as “the Son of the Servant of St Carthage”. St Carthage, who died in AD 637, was a Kerryman, and he founded the great Celtic monastery at Lismore in Co Waterford.
Enjoy the mountain wild flowers along the margins of the path as you go, and in particular look out for two insectivorous plants, the pale green leaves of the rare great butterwort, called here the Kerry Violet, and the tiny blood-red sundew.
When you cross the bridge over the river Caol, you are truly entering the Hag’s Glen, which is surrounded by a great cirque of majestic mountains. A ring of six summits that reach higher than 900m lead around the glen from the left to culminate in the perfect pyramid of Carrauntoohil at 1,039m, flanked by Beenkeeragh at 1,010m and Caher at 1,001m.
When the stony path peters out our route continues towards the next waymark, with the river Gaddagh cascading down a deep ravine to our right. The very faint path crosses a moorland of scattered boulders, where the wet and boggy terrain is decorated with pink bell heather, tormentil, butterwort and sundew. In places along here you may spot the silvered knarled roots of the ancient pine trees that grew here 3,000 years ago, preserved by the very bog that killed them.
Follow the waymark posts up onto a low rounded ridge that runs up the glen, from where there are great views in clear weather of the Slieve Mish mountains on the Dingle peninsula.
Our route begins to drop down now, following the waymark posts towards the Gaddagh river, and then it continues on to Lough Callee at the head of the glen. Make your way around the left side of the lake to a rocky promontory overlooking a tiny island: this is a good place to sit and take in the beauty and peace of the place. Lough Callee, means the lake of the Hag. The Cailleach or Hag is reputed to be the mother of all the gods, and she turns up in the mythology of many countries, but most particularly in Ireland, Scotland and the Isle of Man.
On the rising ground on far side of the lake you can see the Devil’s Ladder, once the most popular route to Carrauntoohil, but severe erosion caused by climbers has rendered the ladder dangerous today.
When you can drag yourself away, cross the field of boulders where the Gaddagh river flows out of the lake to reach the Carrauntoohil track, turn right and begin your descent back to Cronin’s Yard. The Gaddagh river is crossed again and, rejoining our outgoing route, we return to Cronin’s Yard for refreshments.
Cronin’s Loop, The Hags Glen
Start and finish point:Cronin's Yard, which is off the Killorglin road, west of Killarney.
Time: Two hours and 30 minutes Suitability: Expect wet and boggy terrain, but suitable for all in good weather.
Map: OSI discovery series, sheet 78 Distance: 8kms