Glendalough, in Co Wicklow, is one of our most visited attractions. You might think that would make it hard to find a peaceful spot. This route helps avoid the crowds, writes FRANCIS BRADLEY
HILLWALKERS CAN be a fairly selfish bunch when it comes to wanting the hills to themselves, and I am no exception, even if it is pleasant to encounter a fellow walker out in the mountains, shoot the breeze for a few minutes and then go your separate ways.
If I arrive at the start of a walk to find that the world and its brothers, sisters, sons and daughters are already there, my first inclination is to turn back. Even the legendary Joss Lynam voiced these sentiments, in a description of the place this walk sets out from: Glendalough, in Co Wicklow.
Heading out from my home, the day looked like being fair with some broken cloud. But by the time I reached Glendalough there was an obvious curtain of rain in the upper valley, and it was heading in my direction.
The weather isn’t always something to stop this intrepid walker, but crowds are. And Glendalough was busy, with Germans, French, Spanish, Italian, Australians, Welsh, English and Americans. I didn’t hear one Irish accent.
Despite my first thoughts to abandon the walk, I decided to soldier on with the knowledge that I would soon be far from the madding crowd.
The walk starts at the main entrance to the graveyard with the iconic round tower. Passing through the graveyard, follow the trail across the river to join up with a track that follows the line of the forest.
Turn right and continue in a westerly direction past the lower lake. From here the views up the valley are memorable, with the Spink and Lugduff on the left and Camaderry on the right sweeping down into the dark waters of the upper lake. When it is busy, the noise from the upper car park will alert you to its presence before you see it.
Take a trail that leads to the car park and continue on through to the exit, then turn left and join the trail along the northern edge of the upper lake.
After a couple of hundred metres, turn on to a broad trail on the right. For the only time on this walk you encounter an ascent, albeit a steady, gentle climb that lasts about a kilometre.
Heading back in an easterly direction, you reach the end of the eastern spur from Camaderry. The trail that zigzags its way through the trees on your left follows this spur on to Camaderry and is perhaps the gentlest approach to the mountain in this area. Instead, continue on the trail into Glendasan, where you see remedial work that has been carried out on the trail.
The forest becomes quite dense, and the dampening effect of the trees and carpet of pines needles is palpable.
Soon you become aware that you are travelling parallel to a track below you on the right, and you shortly find a trail leading down to it through the trees.
This is a broad, well-established track that is used by vehicular traffic; the river is the Glendasan. Turn right and follow the flow of the river as you double back on yourself for the second time on this walk.
There can be something very enticing about clear, apparently slow-moving rivers, and this one seems shallow. Bathe your feet if you want, but don’t take needless risks. The track leads you back to the R757 and only a couple of hundred metres from the start of the walk.
Glendalough to Glendasan, Co Wicklow
Start and finishNext to the Glendalough Hotel (0404-45135/45391, www.glendalough.com).
DistanceSix and a half or seven kilometres.
TimeA leisurely two hours.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 56.
SuitabilityFor all ages, but unsuitable for buggies. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately, bring drinks and snacks, and don't litter.
RefreshmentsPlenty of choice in Glendalough, Laragh and Roundwood.