HIDDEN GEMS:NORTHERN Italy has many former city states that are rewarding to anyone interested in art, history and culture, as well as wonderful cuisine and wine.
Venice, Padua, Vicenza and Verona are all well known and much visited, but there are lesser-known jewels, such as Cremona, Ferrara and the stunningly beautiful city of Mantua (Mantova in Italian), birthplace of Virgil, setting for Rigoletto, city of exile for Romeo and the centre of power for one of the greatest dynasties in Renaissance Italy.
Why Mantua is relatively unknown is quite a mystery. It is not particularly hard to reach. We flew to Venice, a wonderful gateway to this part of Italy, took an hour-long train ride to Verona, then changed to the frequent local train, which took just half an hour to arrive in Mantua.
The city was ruled by the powerful Gonzaga family (above) from 1328 until 1707. The clan had many colourful characters, perhaps none more so than Isabella d'Este, wife of Francesco II and known as the first lady of the Renaissance. It was under Isabella's patronage that Mantua became a centre of art and culture.
The centre of the city consists of four attractive interconnecting piazzas with two major churches, Duomo San Pietro and the stunning Church of Sant' Andrea.
There are also two palaces in the city, Palazzo Te and Palazzo Ducale, on Piazza Sordello, which is the jewel in Mantua's crown. My reason for visiting Mantua was to view the ducal palace's Camera degli Sposi, or Wedding Chamber, a treasure of Renaissance Italy.
The entire west wall of the room is a 15th-century walnut oil fresco by Mantegna depicting the court of Ludovico Gonzaga in all its colourful splendor.
There are other reasons for visiting Mantua. The Rough Guide speaks of its "Arabian Nights skyline rising above its three encircling lakes", and Mantuans are justifiably proud of the local cuisine.
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