The Channel Island's laid-back island charm and dash of European elegance make it a great short-haul option, writes James Helm
JERSEY WAS A new experience for us, a destination that felt close, but one that we knew relatively little about. The cows, the potatoes, the tax rates, and good old Bergerac, still popping up on daytime TV: they were all familiar. It felt like a magical mystery tour where you had been told some of the route in advance.
When we told friends where we were heading, many had their own Jersey story. Parents used to go there for holidays, or had honeymooned there; one friend said he'd picked fruit in Jersey as a student. Fewer of them had made a recent visit. The days of cheap flights to the Continent probably means many modern holidaymakers now pass over Jersey at 35,000 feet on their way to somewhere slightly more exotic.
The French writer Victor Hugo, who once lived on the largest of the Channel Islands, referred to Jersey as "pieces of France fallen into the sea and picked up by England".
As you might expect, Monsieur Hugo's description is spot on. He might never have sat in a traffic jam in the middle of St Helier, the island's capital, but on the drive from the airport, you get an immediate sense of the proximity of France. The roads are numbered, but the locals use their French names, and so many of the places squeezed into this little island have French names too. Jersey is neither solely British nor French. It's a bit of both.
Jersey is only nine miles long and five miles wide, but it packs a lot in. On our visit, we struck gold. The weather was just about perfect: hot and sunny almost all day, every day. While we ticked off plenty of the recommended sites, we also spent much longer on the clean, sandy beaches than we had anticipated. Grève de Lecq, up on the north west of the island, was our favourite beach, a sheltered, pretty place, with cliffs on either side, and rock pools for the children to explore, plus easy access to Jersey ice creams.
The island is small, but its countryside is varied. The famed Jersey cattle, with faces that look like a Disney creation, graze in lush fields. The good soil means potato fields, which produce the Jersey Royals, are everywhere, reminding me of teenage holiday jobs picking spuds. Elsewhere they may be under threat from their grey enemies, but red squirrels thrive here. Elegant farmhouses, which owe their looks to Normandy, peep out from behind the trees, and the parishes, into which Jersey is divided, possess large old stone churches.
First impressions on arrival had been slightly less inspiring. Before the sunshine arrived, St Helier looked, well, ordinary. I'd expected either a bit of grandeur, or a spot of seaside quaintness, but in that sense I was a little disappointed. The secret, we soon found, was to get out on to the country lanes, to explore the villages and the golden beaches.
A lot of Jersey life is undoubtedly modern. However, for this visitor, lots of the island's endearing traits involved a glimpse of the past. The pace of life seemed gentle. Holding a £1 note felt like a blast from the past. Days at the beach consisted of buckets, spades, those fine ice creams, and hunting for crabs. On our first day we got a sense of the vagaries of island life too: there were no newspapers to be had because the plane from England carrying them had not arrived "due to unforeseen circumstances".
For sailors and golfers, there is a lot to offer. For us, in family daytripping mode, there was much, too. The Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust was a great day out, and an example of conservation in action. I had read one of Gerald Durrell's books at school, and Jersey is where the author and naturalist set up his base from which to save endangered species around the world. In 31 acres of greenery you can see gorillas, orang-utans, bears, snakes, lemurs, and plenty more. The founder died in 1995, but his legacy remains, and Durrell staff are busy around the world on their mission of saving wildlife from extinction.
Our children got to run wild in one of Jersey's newest attractions, the aMaizin! activity park, and from their viewpoint it probably deserves the exclamation mark. There are go-kart tracks, a water-slide, a model castle and pirate ship to clamber around, tunnels and tractor rides, and the maze, hinted at in the name, is growing rapidly.
During our stay we discovered the profound effect that Nazi occupation during the second World War had on Jersey and its population. We were there for the Liberation Day celebrations, and went to the main festivities in St Helier's People's Park, a colourful and crowded gathering with flags, music, entertainment and memories.
As the 1940s tunes played on the main stage, I got talking to Bernard Holley, an 82-year-old Jersey resident who lived here during through the occupation. As a young man, he had risked his life by repairing radios for islanders so they could hear what was happening in the world beyond. He described the celebrations once the Germans had surrendered, how the delighted and relieved crowds had thronged the streets.
The island's traumatic wartime experiences are detailed at the Jersey Wartime Tunnels. It is a marvellous, powerful exhibition set out in the underground hospital called Ho8, which was built by forced labour during the occupation. Deep in the tunnels you learn about life under the German army and hear the stories of ordinary Jersey people: those punished for resisting, for example, and those sent away to concentration camps; those accused of collaboration; and the large majority who tried stoically to carry on.
A car isn't necessary to enjoy your trip to Jersey, but driving around the island was fun. The distances are short, and the upper speed limit on the island is a genteel 40mph (64kmph). The country roads are narrow, with high hedges on either side, but driving, as Jim Bergerac always seemed to find in that open-topped red sports car of his, is a relaxed, leisurely business.
In addition to Grève de Lecq, there are lots of other great beaches to linger on. St Ouen is the long swathe of sand that extends down the west coast. St Brélade, down on the south west, provides one of Jersey's iconic images. We were there on a sun-baked Sunday, but even with big crowds out enjoying the weather, we had enough space to put the umbrella up and kick a ball around.
Up in the far northwest corner, Plemont Bay is a breathtaking sight, with steep cliffs above and caves below. Be wary of high tides and rock falls, but the view from the narrow steps down to the sand is spectacular.
We really enjoyed Jersey, and it got us thinking about future forays to see the other Channel Islands - smaller Guernsey, and tiny Sark and Alderney. For families choosing between holiday destinations that offer variety without being too far flung, Jersey really deserves to be part of the calculation.
Where to stay, eat and go on the island
Where to stay
Merton Hotel. St Saviour, 00-44-1534-724231, www.seymourhotels.com/mertonhotel. The Merton is within walking distance from the centre of St Helier. It's a great place for families, and we met guests from Ireland, the UK, and France. The staff were friendly and helpful, the food good. The children loved the Aquadome, with its pool and water slide, and the new Flowrider, where you can practise your surfing without going to the sea: In the centre of St Helier, the Pomme d'Or Hotel (00-44-870-4867462, www.seymourhotels.com/pommedorhotel) at Liberation Square is the Merton's sister hotel, and a famous old venue.
Where to eat
Restaurant Sirocco. 00-44-1534-720511, www.theroyalyacht.com. We enjoyed a meal at the Royal Yacht Hotel in the heart of St Helier. It has great food and friendly service on the balcony in a smart new setting.
The smaller beaches all tend to have pleasant, small cafes down with outdoor seating and good food. Other places to try include the Pizza Express restaurant overlooking the great beach at St Brélade's, a fine location.
For outdoor tea or snacks, The Hungry Man in the little harbour at Rozel Bay is popular.
The parks and beaches offer lots of picnic opportunities. Howard Davis Park, close to the Merton Hotel in St Saviour, offered a well-tended grassy expanse and gardens to explore.
Where to go
Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust (00-44-153-4860000; www.durrell.org) is open every day from 9.30am-6pm (5pm in winter).
The Jersey War Tunnels (00-44-153-4860808, www.jerseywartunnels.com) are open from 10am-6pm every day of the week. Take a sweater, as the tunnels are chilly. Look out for the entry tickets, which are copies of identity cards that belonged to Jersey residents at the time.
The aMaizin! Adventure Park ( www.jerseymaze.com) has lots of activities for children of all ages, some high-energy, some more gentle, such as the farmyard.
There are lots of beaches to explore, from the huge St Ouen, to the town beach of St Aubin, the dramatic Plemont Bay and cute Bouley Bay. Jersey also has some castles with rich histories. Elizabeth Castle lies off the coast at St Helier, and Mont Orgueil looms over the village of Gorey. www.jersey.com