Encounters with nature and a 'big black beast' on a pitch and putt course made for a great day's walking in Donegal, writes FRANCIS BRADLEY
OUR JOINTS were still creaking after the mauling we had endured the previous day, so a pleasant, undulating route was on the cards. Arranmore Island, off the northwest Donegal coast, is only a 15-minute ferry trip from Burtonport or six minutes if you catch the fast ferry.
On the approach to the island, we were happy to note that there were no long, heart-thumping climbs ahead of us. Our plan was to follow the waymarked Slí Árainn Mhóir (Arranmore Way), part of the Bealach na Gaeltachta.
Having deposited our gear in the BB, we headed off from Leabgarrow in a clockwise direction at an embarrassingly slow pace – more out of necessity than anything else.
Arranmore is home to about 500 people and has three schools – two primary and one secondary. Like all islands, Arranmore has suffered a fair degree of tragedy, none more so than the loss of 19 lives in November, 1935, when a yawl with 20 passengers on board was forced onto rocks in a storm. The sole survivor died in 1987.
Hardly 2km from our starting point, we arrived at An Chultúrlann, the island’s heritage and cultural centre where there is a comprehensive display of the tragic events of 1935.
This was our first pitstop. My group stubbornly places a particular emphasis on the importance of cups of tea at regular intervals.
Exiting the centre, we spotted a basket of golf clubs – putters, wedges and eight irons – pitch and putt stuff. Why not? Across the road a nine-hole, par three course beckoned and being the types that like to add colour to the perceived beige world of hillwalking, we rose to the challenge. The grass hadn’t been cut in a while, the greens were difficult to identify and there were no flags. The going was soft to squidgy and we were advised to look out for the dog!
Off we went with images of McIlroy, McDowell and Clarke in our heads. They never faced the hazards we encountered: a course with a lack of bounce where the ball often buried itself in the turf; flesh and blood hazards (spectators with horns in woolly attire relaxed languidly on the 7th green); and then the dog (a big black beast) who watched our preparations with baited breath. Alert, like a pointer with one paw raised.
Then, whack! The ball was on its way. Or at least it should have been. Instead it was buried in the ground 6ft in front of me and the dog was helpless with laughter. I tried again (God loves a trier). Whack! The ball sailed away, just like you see on the telly. The dog was a blur. He got the ball and treated it like a sweet. I nervously tried to retrieve ball. Success, but at a price. Slobbery ball – need I say more – and the dog learned fast. What followed was several instances of chasing a “laughing” dog. And on it went – great craic.
ENOUGH OF THE diversions. While the weather gods played hide and seek, we headed on to Rossillion Bay where we found Killeens Hotel looking down on the beach and harbour. The location and the need to replenish after the tensions of the Arranmore pitch and putt forced us to seek sustenance – fantastic soup – before we again faced into the challenges ahead.
There are no feeding stations after Killeens until you arrive back in Leabgarrow, so be warned. The road continued west for another 2km before turning north and gained height along the west coast of the island. The trail turned inland under Frenchman’s Hill and reached a junction where the waymarker indicated right towards Cluidaniller – the highest point on the island. There are a number of lakes in this area which are good for fishing.
The trail continued on to join up with the road that links Leabgarrow with Rinrawros Point lighthouse. You can extend the walk by going all the way out to the lighthouse and beyond, including a visit to the Arranmore/Beaver Island Monument. Beaver Island, on Lake Michigan, was the destination for several hundred emigrants from Arranmore following the Famine. Arranmore is now twinned with Beaver Island. It was downhill all the way to Leabgarrow, followed by more tea, hot showers, good food and a good night’s sleep.
Route Arranmore, Co Donegal
Start/finishLeabgarrow village.
Distance/timeThe 12km should take about three to three-and-a-half hours (not including food and golf).
SuitabilityEasy walking.
RefreshmentsTry Leabgarrow, An Chultúrlann, Killeens Hotel.
AccessArranmore is accessed from Burtonport by ferry. See arranmoreferry.com or tel 074-9542233. An alternative service is available at arranmorefastferry.com or phone 087-3171810.
AccommodationWe stayed in Claire's B&B, phone 074-9520042.
Websitearainnmhor.com.