People who visit the Co Kerry town sometimes find they can't bear to leave, writes TONY CLAYTON-LEA
DINGLE and its surroundings have so much culture that they could keep the yogurt industry going forever. Quite apart from the
Other Voices
music series, which has been on RTÉ for the past month, and this month’s annual film festival, this part of Co Kerry is home to such artistic and cultural stalwarts as Louis Mulcahy and Brian de Staic, as well as a string of art galleries and craft businesses.
Surprisingly, perhaps, Dingle – whose people seem not to have taken to heart its relatively new official name of An Daingean – is effectively cut off from the outside world. One way in, one way out. Word has it that not many robberies take place here. Where on earth would the criminals go? How would they hide themselves and their booty? And, sure, doesn’t everyone know each other down this neck of the woods, anyway, so what’s the point?
Over the years, people have arrived in Dingle and never left. The reason for this could be as simple as the call of the wild, or it might be that, although the town is a magnet for tourists during the summer, it lives at its own pace from October to May.
Businesspeople have the time to mull over the previous season with friends and colleagues. The rush, push and pull of the town are replaced by an extended period of time to breathe and live, to take stock.
The only times any amount of visitors come to the town during these months are in December, when Other Voicesis recorded, and March, when Dingle Film Festival shakes the town out of its winter hibernation.
Such a pace of life engenders thought and creativity, so it’s little surprise that the area is dotted with galleries and workshops. Indeed, crafts of all kinds are to be found in the region, and not always in the most obvious of locations. Some artists have their own galleries; others use their homes as exhibition spaces. (Some of these may be remote, but buying directly from the artist is not only reassuringly old fashioned but also financially savvy.) Others still display their work in cafes and restaurants, giving Dingle a distinct sense of living and breathing culture.
Yet it isn’t just the art that’s at the heart of Dingle, it’s the people. You go there, look around and return home with a different perspective. Simple as that.
See discoverireland.ie/dingle and dingle-peninsula.ie
Where to stay, eat and go in town
Where to stay
Emlagh House Hotel.066-9152345, emlaghhouse. com. This country house on the outskirts of town combines indulgence – cashmere throws, Egyptian cotton sheets – with an elegant personal touch. Open from March 16th. Rooms from €130.
Benners Hotel. Main Street,066-9151638, dinglebenners. com. Bang in the centre of Dingle, this is the go-to place for an old-world welcome. The surprisingly spacious rooms might be perceived as a tad old- fashioned but actually are quite charming. Doubles from €60 per person sharing.
Dingle Lodge. John Street,066-9152224, southbound holidaycottages.com. This splendid accommodation has five bedrooms (the maximum occupancy is 10 people), three of which are en suite. With an enclosed garden – complete with hot tub – and a large living area decorated to a high standard, this is a top-quality option for families and groups. Seven nights from €699.
Dingle Skellig Hotel.066-9150200, dingleskellig. com. The biggest hotel in town, about a 10-minute walk from the centre, is a mix of traditional and contemporary. Rooms from €49pps.
Dingle Bay Hotel. Strand Street,066-9151231, dinglebayhotel.com.
Something of a boutique option, by the pier and marina. Long’s Restaurant and Paudie’s Bar are long-term favourites for residents and visitors. Rooms from €55pps.
Where to eat and drink
Chart House. The Mall,066-9152255, thecharthouse dingle.com. Owner Jim McCarthy knows how to welcome his customers, and this restaurant seems tailor-made to have a wide appeal. Fresh local produce forms the basis of the menu.
Murphy's Ice Cream. Strand Street, 066-9152644, murphysicecream.ie. "Made with love in Dingle" is the tag line for this excellent little ice-cream parlour cum coffee bar. Founded by Seán and Kieran Murphy 10 years ago, this is a gem of a place to kick back, indulge and read the first chapter of a book you've wanted to start for ages.
Dick Mack's bar. Green Street,066-9151960. The most singular pub experience you might ever have, this time-warped place is presided over by the owner, Oliver, who makes everyone feel welcome. The decor? Think old-cobbler-shop chic mixed with Harry Potter's local, the Hog's Head.
Ashe's Seafood Bar. Main Street,066-9150989, ashesseafoodbar.com. It's comfort food in this smart but cosy town-centre seafood restaurant and wine bar. The fish pie is legendary; for a mix of broiling juice and sustenance to savour, the beef-and- Guinness stew hits the spot.
Old Stone Bar and Grill. John Street,066-9152620, oldstonebarandgrill.com. Dingle's newest town-centre restaurant is quite swish compared with more established ones, yet it's grounded by virtue of its food, which is prepared with an experienced hand by chef- owner Garrett Bradshaw. Cool interior, too.
The Half Door. John Street,066-9151600, halfdoor.ie. Terrific seafood (the platter is outstanding) in possibly the prettiest restaurant in the south of the country. Owners Denis and Teresa O'Connor put their stamp on proceedings with panache, charm and a strategic sprinkling of fuchsia blooms.
The Goat Street Cafe. Main Street,066-9152770, thegoatstreetcafe.com. Casual dining, relaxed atmosphere and informal food – the seafood chowder is a must on a chilly day. If you're on your own, let your eyes drift to the walls, where the work of local artists is regularly displayed.
Where to go
Gallarus Oratory.066-9155333. Standing on farmland on Dingle Peninsula, and dating from (depending on the scholar) the sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth or 12th century, this is a fine example of a Christian place of worship. Its drystone construction is waterproof, which means the structure is in almost perfect condition.
Other Voices.othervoices.ie. Musicians come to town in early December each year to record concerts for broadcast by RTÉ in February and March. Oh, look, there's Snow Patrol.
Blasket Islands.This group of islands to the west of Slea Head was inhabited until 1953, when only 22 inhabitants remained. They are still uninhabited, but you can take a ferry from the mainland to see their raw beauty.
Dingle Film Festival.dinglefilmfestival.com. This takes place from March 18th to 21st. The line-up includes documentaries, features and a strand of Ireland-related gangster films. One of the special guests at the festival is the Irish actor Cillian Murphy.
Conor Pass.This rugged, twisting road links Dingle, on the south side, to Kilcummin, on the north coast, at Brandon Bay. The views from the crest are marvellous.