IT IS SOMETIMES said that where mountains begin, hurling ends, and indeed the ash rarely clashes in Donegal, Connemara or Kerry. Instead the world’s fastest field game flourishes in the fertile flatlands of the south and east, particularly in Co Kilkenny.
So when a marble city acquaintance suggested I write about hiking in the black and amber county my escape clause was ready — these level plains by the River Nore are more suited for the camán than the walking pole.
But when my friend reminded me about the huddle of fine, low-slung hills in the southeast of the county I was stumped. And so, I soon found myself slipping across the Tipperary/Kilkenny border on a mission to conquer the highest summit in the Kingdom of the Cats.
Base camp was the Cafe on High in Graiguenamanagh. Fortified by strong coffee and the convivial atmosphere, I sallied forth with a rucksack full of curiosity and boldly followed the walking arrows towards the beckoning summit of Brandon Hill.
Initially pleased with my rapid progress — 4th gear does make things so much easier — I was eventually embarrassed into abandoning my vehicle at a forestry entrance.
I booted it along a sympathetic forest trail that parted from the South Leinster Way by doubling back on itself, before eventually terminating at a turning circle. Here a narrower track led upwards through a gateway to open mountainside. Skirting a forest edge, I soon swung left and took a slightly steep path leading to Brandon’s 515-metre (1,690ft) summit.
Summit exhilaration was initially lessened, however, by an unsightly, ill-maintained cross that drew the eye.
I can sympathise with the human need to reinforce a society’s cherished values via displays on dominant high points: hilltop crosses in Ireland, mountain Madonnas in Italy, Buddhist prayer flags in Tibet. Nevertheless, such artefacts should be tasteful and reverential to the landscape as well as the beliefs represented: there is no need for them to detract from the summit experience.
Unfortunately on Brandon it is necessary to blot out this ugly, intrusive cross to savour the vista. Then, however, the compensation is handsome indeed. This is a true “reach for your camera” summit, with delightful views to the Blackstairs range and the southern ocean over the serene waters of the meandering River Barrow.
Next I followed walking arrows south through marvellously bleak moorland to reach a forest edge where it is possible to shorten the outing by descending to the left on a badly eroded track. Instead I followed the arrows pointing right to an amenable trail that looped through pleasant Ballinvarry Wood before rejoining the steeper alternative track.
Here it was enjoyable going as the route rambled north with occasional views to the Barrow Valley and later dreamy vistas over sublime Graiguenamanagh. A right at a T-junction and one final downhill stretch returned me to my vehicle.
Here I reflected that Brandon Hill is indeed a five-star outing for the casual hiker – though it is rather despoiled by an unsympathetic piece of summit furniture that is long overdue for replacement.
Start point. From Graiguenamanagh take the R705 for New Ross to roundabout, going right on the exit for Inistioge. Immediately swing left, following arrows for South Leinster Way, park at forest entrance. Walk begins here.
Suitability. Entirely on tracks with one slightly steep section. Generally, presents no dangers or navigational difficulties. However, walkers do need boots and warm clothing.
Brandon Hill
Time. Allow 3 hours.
Map. OSI Discovery Series, sheet 68.