NATIVITY BROUGHT TO LIFE:THE VILLAGE of Lucéram, near the source of the Paillon River, lies high in the olive grove-covered hills northeast of Nice, in the department of Alpes-Maritimes. It is on the Route du Sel, the alpine road taken by mule trains to carry salt – known as white gold – to Piedmont and the Po plain from the ports of Villefranche, Monaco and Nice, following the Paillon Valley.
Although probably fortified in Roman times, the village’s main medieval defences were constructed under the reign of Charles I of Anjou, count of Nice and of Provence. Three of the four monumental 14th-century gates still exist.
Every year during December and January the Maison de Pays de Lucéram et du Haut Paillon organises the magical Circuit des Crèches here and in three other nearby locations – more than 400 traditional nativity scenes in chapels and cellars, around fountains of cool clear spring water, under porches, in shops, at the old bread oven, in the medieval tower, in the baroque church of Ste Marguerite and in the museum. Winter visitors stroll in wonder along winding lanes, through vaulted passageways, up and down flights of stone steps.
Founded by local volunteers, the Musée de la Crèche is in the small square of La Placette. Here you can admire over 150 creations, including the smallest nativity scene, created in half a walnut shell (above). Most of the tiny figures, known in French as santons, are made of terracotta, the noble earth of Provence; but you'll also find knitted ones and others made from pegs, matchsticks, wrought iron and even chocolate. At 10m long, Christiane Ricort's Crèche Provençale, in the Chapelle St Pierre, is the largest, with 100 or so hand-made santons.
The 12th Circuit des Crèches runs from December 5th until January 3rd. luceram.com
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