OFF THE PATH IN CATALONIA:YOU OFTEN find that unlikely destinations reveal hidden treasures on closer inspection. That's certainly the case with the western Catalonian city of Lérida. Very much off the beaten path, it will reward those who like their travel unprocessed.
A bit of perseverance helps, too: Lérida’s surroundings are busy and ugly. Once you penetrate these you will reach the Río Segre, which becomes reduced to a pitiful trickle in summer when temperatures soar.
I first visited in spring, when, for an Irishman, it was balmy. Initially, I walked around town in shorts and T-shirts, but after a few days I felt obliged to wear full-length clothing, after constant stares from locals in their full winter outfits.
From the river a short walk will lead you to the heart of Lérida (which is known as Lleida in Catalan). Beyond a fashionable shopping street, steeply winding alleys lead past numerous small bars to the top of the town.
This is dominated by the Seu Vella (above), a Gothic Romanesque 13th-century cathedral. Walls from a ninth-century Arab fortress, La Suda, also survive, and you can follow the ramparts. The views stretch away: to the north are the foothills
of the Pyrenees and Andorra; in other directions the plain extends as far as the eye can see. It’s a place where you can feel the hand of history.
But the best thing about Lérida is the people: they will extend the hand of friendship and are quick to laugh and throw a party. Go in the warmer months and you might catch one of their renowned fiestas, such as the Aplec del Caragol (held at the end of May), which attracts thousands of local people and visitors who share an interest in eating snails and partying. ¡Arriba!
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