The problem with Scotland is choice – so many great mountains and so little time. Having visited annually for almost two decades, I still know little of the place. Mostly confining myself to the ridges of Ben Nevis, the gnarly hills around Glencoe and the unforgettable Mamores, I had relatively little knowledge of other areas. So I was glad this year when our group agreed to a day at a lower level exploring one of Europe’s finest wildernesses.
Sequestered from the mainland by sea lochs and the the Rough Bounds mountains, Knoydart is reachable only by boat, but offers a unique selling point for inaccessibility, in the form of the remotest pub on these islands.
Leaving Fort William, capital of the West Highlands, our spirits rose as the lonesome Road to the Isles unfolded its timeless vista. Our journey paralleled the famous Jacobite railway through 50 miles of mountains, burns, forests and lochs, with the surrounding landscape mostly misty and ethereal, but occasionally sparkling quicksilver in glorious shafts of morning sun.
At the laid-back little port of Mallaig, we embarked. Soon, spray from a spirited ocean broke invigoratingly over us as we sliced through the Sound of Sleat before entering the quieter waters of Lough Nevis and fetching up at Inverie, the remotest village on these islands. Immediately reminded that this is a place apart by the absence of a phone signal, we ambled past whitewashed waterfront cottages before swinging left and uphill through ancient woodlands.
We continued into the lost world of Knoydart, passing an abandoned croft with its roof caved in, which acted as our reminder that the area is not a natural wilderness, but a man-made one. In the 18th century it had a population of 2,000 but these people were ejected by a notorious series of Highland clearances during the early 19th century.
Tagging a sympathetic path inland, our curiosity was captured by an incongruous memorial atop a steep knoll. An ascent showed it to be disappointingly modern, built in 1938 by Lord Brocket, but offering the reward of panoramic views. Further on, the great snow-capped summits of three renowned mountains filled our horizon. The mighty ridges of Meall Buidhe and Luinne Bheinn lay almost directly ahead, while isolated Ladhar Bhein, almost universally regarded as the finest mountain in the west of Scotland, stood sentinel to the north.
Arriving above tranquil Loch an Dubh-Lochain, we halted. The way ahead led high over Mám Barrisdale pass and then on through the empty fastness of Knoydart for 14 miles to the nearest public road. A captivating prospect indeed, but time was not a friend for our flight was the following day.
So we retraced our steps. Sleety rain came slanting as we re-entered Inverie, creating a rush for the fire-lit sanctuary of the Old Forge Pub. Here, huge portions of hearty food and the convivial atmosphere of this remotest watering hole saw promises made to return again and further explore this greatest of Scottish wildernesses.
THE DETAILS
Getting there: You can with Aer Lingus from Dublin and Cork to Glasgow, Ryanair flies from Dublin to Glasgow and Prestwick. Both airports have train stations from which it is possible to travel by rail through Glasgow to Mallaig. Return boat trip from Mallaig to Inverie takes 40 minutes and costs £20 return.
Suitability: Unstrenuous walk following a distinct path to Loch an Dubh-Lochain
Distance: 10km (return)
Time: 2.5 hours.
Visit: theoldforge.co.uk
