If there were an award for the most perfect-looking village in the world, Zermatt would easily make the shortlist. Its location, under the Toblerone-shaped Matterhorn mountain, traffic-free streets, weathered wooden buildings and small homes and hotels capture a chocolate-box scene that is almost a cliche.
But Zermatt is an authentic Alpine village and superb ski resort. Since 2002 a reorganised lift pass with nearby Cervinia, in Italy, provides access to more than 300km of pisted runs. The area is also one of the leading centres for the very expensive, and rather antisocial, heliskiing habit.
Since the introduction of the euro Swiss prices have converged somewhat with those of other European resorts, but Zermatt prices remain defiantly high. This isn’t a resort for big families or those on an experiment to see if they will like skiing. It unashamedly targets those looking for a high-end and luxurious experience.
Resort height 1,620m.
Range 1,620m-3,883m.
Lifts 34.
Total runs 183km.
Longest run 13km.
Best run Red 7. From Plateau Rosa at 3,480m, embark on one of the Alps’ largest vertical descents, which crosses the border and finishes two kilometres below at the Italian village of Valtournenche.
Snowparks One.
Season length Late November to late April (glacier skiing year round).
Snow reliability *****
Who goesAccomplished middle-aged skiers with the money and expertise to enjoy the cuisine and off-piste opportunities in Zermatt. Honeymooners from around the world soaking up the romance of the village and scenery.
Value €€Also one of the world's more expensive resorts, Zermatt's lift pass, ski schools and equipment hire can be wallet-emptying. Luxury hotels and award-winning restaurants ensure that eating and sleeping are also costly.
Insider tipsLunch at Refugio Teodulo; this Italian Alpine Club-owned mountain hut serves delicious Aosta Valley charcuterie for about €20. Pop into the village's Matterhorn Museum: the history of mountaineering in one of the original centres is captured in this refurbished museum, first opened in 1944.
Airports Geneva, Zurich.
Tour operator Crystal.
Resort of the week: Zermatt, Switzerland
Snow report
Deep powder, sunny skies and sharp temperatures characterise conditions in the middle of the peak season.
Ski resorts report higher than average accumulations, including in the marginal resorts around the Mediterranean in Lebanon, Turkey, Greece and Cyprus.
US and Canadian resorts continue to report excellent snow cover.
For up-to-date snow conditions, check your destination on www.skiclub.co.uk. Free six-day forecasts are available at www.snow-forecast.com. More than 4,000 webcams are on www.snoweye.com.
Kitwatch
A growing trend among younger snowheads is to bring your own soundtrack to the hills. While many of us consider it sacrilegious to drown out the crunch of snow, the whish of wind, that distinct snapping shut of bindings or even the eerie silence of the mountains, others swear by a musical accompaniment to enhance their experience. Nixon headphones and
earbuds are the must-have accessory for music and style enthusiasts.
Available in a bunch of colours from €60 at Onboard, in Creation Arcade, Dublin 2; www.onboard.ie.
5 for beginners
Pamporovo, Bulgaria.
Courchevel, France.
Arabba, Italy.
Alpbach, Austria.
Breckenridge, Colorado.
What’s on
The Irish Champs gives ambitious skiers and boarders a chance to bag the title of Irish freestyle skier or boardercross champion.
Now in its second year, the competition is the brainchild of UCD snowsports club founder Paul Harte; it will be held in Les Deux Alpes, France, from March 14th to 21st. You will need an Irish passport, or proof of entitlement to one, and
€50 to enter. www.irishsnowchamps.com.
Twin tips
The popularity in fly-drive breaks has meant that many drivers have found themselves hunched over on a dark cold road, ankle-deep in freshly fallen snow, trying to understand the instructions for attaching snow chains. Stop: it’s impossible. Always book a hire car with winter tyres, which are as effective as snow chains 95 per cent of the time.
Book ski equipment online for discounts of up to 30 per cent. Intersportrent.com has more than 400 outlets in France, Switzerland and Austria.
And finally
The Skiwelt region, Austria’s largest lift-linked region, is offering half-price lift passes for men who dress up as women during its carnival week, from February 23rd to March 1st. The recession-conscious, cheapskates and transvestites should check www.skiwelt.at for full qualifying details.