GEMMA TIPTONstays at Horetown House, Co Wexford
WE ARRIVED at Horetown House muddy, rather smelly, tired and, in my case, near to tears. It was the weekend of the first polocrosse tournament of the season (held at Horetown polocrosse club next door), and scattered across the beautiful fields that roll out below Horetown House were tents, horseboxes, pens holding horses and the pitches where, that morning, I had singularly failed to cover myself in glory.
I couldn’t blame Bosco (my horse) for getting excited, there’s a strong sense of tension in the air at a tournament, and it affects horses and riders alike. Most clever souls channel this into winning aggression, whereas I went all to pieces, and by the second chukka started to feel that if the Wexford team wanted the ball that much, sure I could just get another one later.
Arriving early on Friday evening, we had camped for the night, drinking a little too much prosecco, having some very tasty barbecued goose before settling into our tent. So we were treating ourselves with a second night at Horetown House. Camping is great fun but, as I get older, the thrill of a second day without sheets or shower begins to pall.
The events of the day’s play made the plan more of a medicinal necessity, and I arrived into the welcoming and beautiful hallway of Horetown feeling like a piece of chewed-up string. I was grateful for the lack of askance glances at my rather manky self, but nonetheless turned down the offer of a cup of tea, and opted instead for a jacuzzi bath. This, and the subsequent discovery of fluffy bathrobes and slippers in the wardrobe, went a long way towards restoration.
Restoration, along with rest and relaxation, is what Horetown is all about. It is a handsome historic house and has been completely refurbished by owners Thomas and Bernadette White. The refurbishment has been done with elegance and comfort in mind, and it manages to retain the feel of a house rather than a hotel. There are ornaments around the place, prints and paintings, soft sofas and chandeliers. There are also some wobbly bits: a small damp patch near a cornice and sticky sash windows. Your appreciation of some of the decor might depend on how you feel about taxidermy. Each bedroom is different, and you can choose from views and details on the website. Some are grander than others, with four-poster beds, but all have an atmosphere of countrified opulence, without any of that going overboard that has spoiled many other recently done-up hotels.
The house dates back to the late 17th century, and as a result the rooms have near-perfect proportions, with gorgeous light coming in through high windows. Sitting in my bathrobe, sipping more prosecco, I began to feel at peace. Away from the hubbub of the pitches, the sounds drifting in through the open window were of birds, and a distant tractor cutting an early crop of hay. You can book spa treatments in the comfort of your own room, should you be so inclined, but the bath was enough for me. There was the option to get dressed again and go downstairs to the drawing room for cocktails, but as neither of us could face getting out of the bathrobes the prosecco solution remained.
A game at 9am the next day shattered my sense of peace – and rudely interrupted my sleep (enhanced by the most comfortable of beds and crispest of linen). Breakfast, though delicious, was a hurried affair, and even though we won our match, I have to confess my mind was more on getting back to my room for another blissful nap than being hungry for the ball.
Horetown is very romantic, and it would probably be a great place to go with a group of friends. We didn’t try dinner, though the restaurant has a good reputation. There are gorgeous walks in the vicinity, and although you have a sense of being inland, Kilmore Quay and the sea are only a short drive away. Fishing, horse-riding, walking and golf can all be arranged, and they are also in the market for weddings.
For me, it seemed the perfect place to chill out, relax and have a lovely time. There might have been an element of its loveliness being enhanced by contrast – with mud, tents and difficult horses – but I bet it is just as lovely without.
WhereHoretown House, Foulksmills, Co Wexford, 051-565633, www.horetownhouse.ie.
WhatCountry house hotel.
Rooms10 bedrooms, including suites, some with four-poster beds and jacuzzi.
Best ratesB&B from €70pps. August bank holiday specials from €148pps for two nights, with dinner one night.
Restaurant and BarCellar Restaurant for fine dining, plus a dining room on the ground floor with gorgeous views. Coffee, afternoon tea, cocktails and wine served in the sitting room and drawing room.
Child-friendlinessChildren welcome.
AccessWheelchair access to restaurant and public rooms, but not to upstairs bedrooms.
AmenitiesBeauty and spa treatments can be booked. Walking, golfing, course and sea angling and horse-riding all available close by.