There's a lot more than sunbathing and clubbing to the Spanish island where agritourism is proving popular with families and outdoors enthusiasts, writes DEIRDRE VELDON
LIKE MANY a Spanish resort, Majorca’s image got itself wedged somewhere between the 1960s and 1980s, when it was the thing to lash on the cooking oil, flake on the beach for the day and, come night-time, pickle that roasted body in sangria down the club strip. But also like many Spanish resorts, Majorca has reinvented itself, exposing a quieter, prettier underbelly to the current generation of holidaymakers.
This was the Majorca to which we introduced our group of 10, spanning three generations, on the shoulder of the tourist season. We were hardly in the independent traveller category, with not a backpack, nor a pair of hiking boots between us. What we had was a lot of luggage – yes, five children can lug bags weighing almost what they do, thank you, Mr O’Leary – and a 10, uhum, nine-seater van waiting for us at the airport in Majorca.
We traded a couple of apartments on the heaving beaches in baking temperatures for a stone farmhouse 15kms inland in the southeast, at a time when the thermometer was hovering around the 20 degree mark. Agritourism has fuelled the move away from the beach in Majorca and is proving popular with families and outdoors enthusiasts, who are now visiting to cycle, walk or climb the island.
In particular, Majorca is a mecca for cyclists, especially in spring and at other off-peak periods. Fit riders are attracted by the mountainous terrain, well-maintained roads and the temperate conditions. While airline companies have taken much of the fun out of bike transportation these days, you can always hire your own cycle locally.
Companies such as Velo Sport Mallorca (velosport mallorca.com) can supply all manner of two-wheeler, from a simple road bike to a top-of-the-range racer. The cyclist in our group paid €65 for the four-day rental of a racing bike, and returned from his day’s escape with a rosy hue, pronouncing himself thoroughly satisfied with the bike and experience.
Our cyclist was especially pleased to have made the 560m summit at the 14th-century Sant Salvador monastery in just over 20 minutes. A day earlier, we had all taken the climb in our van and found it thoroughly dizzying. The view from the monastery is impressive though, as are the two massive landmarks which flank it – a 14m stone cross and a statue of Christ atop a 35m column.
“Our” farm, near the town of Felanitx, was within easy striking distance of plenty of nearby villages and towns, beaches and historical and beauty spots.
Felanitx itself was a bit of a ho-hum, functional town. It was redeemed somewhat by its fine Sunday market, sprawling in all directions from the steps of the cathedral, where we loaded up with local cheeses, olives, mushrooms, tarts and delicious stuffed pastries or empanadas.
Nearby attractions were a must and needed to satisfy the demands of a group whose interests varied. Let’s face it, even if it had been sweltering, we were never going to spend the days by our inviting pool, kicking back on our sun loungers.
Our accommodation, Finca son Rito, had been subjected to a flamboyant rustic-meets- contemporary makeover by its architect owner. The number of bedrooms – eight – was matched, if not exceeded by the number of bathrooms (although I don’t know if we could be bothered counting), a specialty of the house, so to speak. Some of the smaller party members were appreciative of their practical use, if not the aesthetics. The farm seemed vigorous enough, with olive and orange trees dotted around and complete with bell-swinging sheep, wandering donkeys and swarthy farmer, ploughing furiously during our stay.
MORE THAN 10 million people visit Majorca annually. Touring the island is like exploring an Irish county; and not a big one at that. The great thing about an island stretching 100kms from north to south and 70kms from east to west, is that everywhere’s in easy reach. But, as you do, we stayed within a relatively small radius of our base at the southern end, in the same way that we managed to get lost more than once on fantastically well signposted roads.
The days alternated between town tours, beach seeking and faffing around the villa’s pool and farm. The beaches we found, on either side of the island’s southern tip, were good family spots and definitely the better for the low tourist count.
Among the pines at Cala Mondrago on the island’s east coast, we plumped for the blustery, slightly busy beach nearest the car park, only to later discover the most delightfully empty, serene stretch of strand, just around the corner and out of sight. The hue of the sea would take the eye out of your head, so intense was the azure. On the western side of the tip, Es Trenc was a pleasant, seemingly endless spit of fine, white sand, ideal to while away an afternoon.
Santanyi was one of the more impressive local towns, with a superb market on Wednesdays. It had Spanish market staples in spades; the iffy clothes, shoes, hats and sunglasses which used to feature so strongly in Irish stalls, but which have given way to artisan breads and smoked meats of the farmers’ markets.
Santanyi’s market also carried a fantastic selection of foods, including local specialties such as flavoured seasalts, capers, sundried tomatoes, cured hams and salamis, cheeses, and oodles of knobbled, tasty fresh fruit and veg. The local art and designer goods shops were a welcome addition to the day’s shopping.
Back on the east coast, Porto Colom is a pretty port town. Its aspirations to be recognised as the true birthplace of Christopher Columbus look unlikely to be realised, but it suffers nothing as a result. On our visit, the shutters were being pulled down on businesses in the town. As we herded our group around the quiet streets, enjoying the undivided attention of Porto Colom’s restaurant owners, we congratulated ourselves yet again on having missed the throbbing tourist season.
Deirdre Veldon was a guest of Mallorca Farmhouses (00-44-118-947-3001, mallorca.co.uk)
Where to eat and go on the island
Where to eat
* Rapa Nui. Carre Metge Obrador 23, Cas Concos, Felanitx, 00-34-971-839643. This cool, out-of-town restaurant pops up unexpectedly in the pretty village of Cas Concos. International dishes are given a fresh, contemporary treatment, with delicious results.
* Sa Llotja. Carre Pescadores, Porto Colom, Felanitx, 00-34-971-825165. Said to be the King of Spain’s favourite restaurant – he was absent the night we visited – Sa Llotja serves up bright, modern Mediterranean dishes from its perch overlooking the busy marina at Porto Colom.
* Bona Taula. Calle Rafael Androver 3, Santanyi, 00-34-971-167147. Unassuming on the outside, this restaurant is quite the revelation once you’re inside the door, with traditional Malloran dishes served in a cosy, elegant setting.
Where to go
* The organ of Santanyi. Santanyi is home to one of the most impressive organs in Europe, the work of Mallorcan organ builder Jordi Bosch. The 18th-century organ is now in residence at the Church of Sant Andreu.
* Sant Salvador. On the road between Felanitx and Manacor, a single gatepost guides you along the giddy climb to the monastery at Sant Salvador, built in 1348. The views alone justify the journey, but the buildings on this outcrop, including an attractive chapel, are also worth a visit.
* The grey pearl of Manacor. Majorca’s second city of Manacor is home to the famous grey pearl bearing its name. The pearl factory run by Majorica draws thousands of visitors annually to see its unique method of production. Majorica, Calle Pere Rich, Manacor, 00-34- 971-550900. Open from 9am to 1pm, from 2.30pm to 7pm Monday to Friday, and 10am to 1pm Saturday and Sunday.
Go there
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) operates seasonal flights to Palma from Dublin and Cork. Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies to Palma from Dublin.