Paul Cullenscrambles up over Coumshingaun for spectacular views of the Comeraghs and, beyond, to Waterford Harbour and the Blackstairs
CORRIE, CWM, CIRQUE: many are the names we use for those small lakes, surrounded by towering cliffs, that mark the ancient birthplaces of glaciers in mountain fastnesses. A challenge to climb to, and an even greater challenge to climb above, corries form the centrepieces of some of the most spectacular views in Irish mountain ranges. Their shores are ideal for summer picnics, while the climbing above is often of the airy, vertigo-inducing kind.
The Comeraghs are home to some of Ireland's finest examples of corrie lakes, and this walk takes in two of them. Coumshingaun is the largest corrie in the chain, and the trip there and back is an easy enough jaunt. The full walk, however, takes in the circuit of the lake and another, Crotty's Lough, and involves some hard climbing and occasional bouts of scrambling.
From the starting point, cross the road and climb the gate leading to a small stream. Ford the stream and head upwards through a field on a fairly well-defined path. You are aiming for the lip of the corrie, slightly to the left above, and the track crosses a stile in its progression upwards. After a few false tops you reach the top of the moraine, from which you can view the lake in its often forbidding natural amphitheatre.
Some may wish to end their climb by the lake shore, heading back down by the route they took on the way up, but this walk heads left from the top of the moraine and climbs the shoulder rising steeply above the lake. At first this involves heading south, away from the lake, taking advantage of one of the many sheep trails, but soon enough it is possible to head directly upwards along the ridge. A rough path threads its way through and around the crags, opening up ever more spectacular views of the lake.
Clouds hung over the top of the basin the last time I was there, but on a fine day the views extend to Waterford Harbour, to the south, and the Blackstairs, farther north.
Eventually you will reach the plateau. Head north and then east to complete the circuit of the corrie. Walk to the last rounded peak, known as Stookanmeen, then, navigating carefully, strike out north through the gorse, heading down across a stream and up the other side for about five minutes at average pace. Watch out for more cliffs here, below which lies the small yet perfectly formed Crotty's Lough. If anything this lake is even more spectacular than Coumshingaun, and the views of the fertile countryside are even better.
To descend, head east along the spur, then break right after about 500m, to drop down into fields and then a wood, from where a forest road leads back to the road. Turn right here and you'll end up back at the starting point after a few minutes.
Comeraghs, Co Waterford
Start and finishTake the R676 from Lemybrien on the main Waterford-Cork road; drive 10 km to Kilclooney Bridge (unmarked), where there is a small road to the right. Park by the wall.
Distance10km.
TimeAllow up to four and a half hours, depending on ability. The trip to and from Coumshingaun takes only one and a half or two hours.
SuitabilityReasonable fitness and stout footwear required. The climb above the corrie involves steep scrambling and calls for a head for heights. As visibility is often poor, carry a map and compass - and make sure you know how to use them.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 75.
Last week's photograph of Clare Island should have been credited to Con Brogan/Depart-ment of the Environment, Heritage and Local Government