Is it a troubled drugs hub populated by foreigners and far-right politicians or a fascinating melting pot of ethnicities and political allegiances? Don't let others make up your mind about Rotterdam, writes ADRIENNE CULLEN
THE INTRIGUING paradox about Rotterdam is that the very things that make Dutch people turn up their noses at it are exactly what make it one of the most fascinating cities in the Netherlands to visit.
Like Marseilles, this is a city defined by its identity as an enormous shambling port. It’s still the largest in Europe, and it was the busiest in the world between 1962 and 2004 – when, with the rise of the east, that title passed to Shanghai.
What you won’t notice immediately, but what Dutch people will tell you the moment you mention the R-word – is that there are none of the typically Dutch tall and narrow medieval houses, no ancient churches with soaring spires surrounding squares where markets selling cheese and tulips have been held since the 11th century.
That’s because Rotterdam, the largest industrial target in the Netherlands, was bombed flat by the German air force during the second World War, and everything about it since has been new and experimental – sometimes successfully, sometimes not.
What Dutch people who don’t live here will typically tell you is that the city attracts trouble, is an international drugs hub, is not really Dutch because half the population is of foreign origin, and, more, was home to Pim Fortuyn, the gay right-wing politician assassinated during the 2002 general election – so who knows what will happen in the election to replace the government just fallen?
The politics of immigration is a dangerous business here. That's why Theo van Gogh, great-grandnephew of the artist, was also assassinated, in 2004, having just completed a film about the assassination of Fortuyn. Van Gogh had also worked with the writer Ayaan Hirsi Ali to produce Submission: Part I,a film critical of the treatment of women in Islam. And then there's Geert Wilders, the far-right politician charged with incitement to hatred.
Okay, this is more than you need to know to visit Rotterdam for a few days. And yet it’s what makes this city what it is, and you won’t find it in the guidebooks. It’s a melting pot of ethnicities and political allegiances, where ancient cultures and traditions rub up against the Netherlands’ predominantly modern, sophisticated, secular society.
Urban regeneration has been the key to change. The most famous emblem of Rotterdam’s rebirth as design capital of Europe – with grants for design companies that relocate to the newly chic docklands – is the Erasmus Bridge, on the River Maas. It’s a dramatic 808m-long structure, opened in 1996, with a 139m-high asymmetrical pylon from which comes its nickname, the Swan.
Essentially, the Swan marks the southern edge of the city centre. Central Station marks the northern edge. And between them runs the wonderfully named Coolsingel, the main artery, with its focus on City Hall. You may like to know that Coolsingel is the single most expensive street in the Rotterdam version of Monopoly – and that Coolsingel links Hofplein and Blaak, two other valuable streets, the latter of which hosts an enormous open market every Tuesday and Saturday. Then parallel to Coolsingel runs Lijnbaan, a traffic-free street dedicated to shopping.
Right in the centre, Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen is arguably the best art gallery in the Netherlands, with masterpieces by Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Dalí, Bosch, Magritte, Bruegel the Elder, Monet and many more.
If the weather is good, head for the man-made Boompjeskade Beach, on the banks of the Maas. An international film festival is in January, the North Sea Jazz Festival is in July, and this year there’s the prologue of the Tour de France, on Saturday, July 3rd.
The other good news is that Rotterdam was named culinary capital of the Netherlands last year by the SpecialBiterestaurant guide. And the big, bald and beaming superchef Herman den Blijker – the Netherlands' answer to Gordon Ramsay – now has the title of culinary mayor of Rotterdam. Is that progress? Why not?
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin and Cork to Amsterdam Schiphol, 30 minutes by train from Rotterdam. Ryanair (ryanair. com) flies from Dublin to Eindhoven, which also has train links to the city.
Go there Where to stay, where to eat and where to go in Rotterdam
5 places to stay
Design Hotel. 80 Leuvehaven, 00-31-10-4134139, designhotelrotterdam.nl. On the banks of the Maas, this is the place to stay for all lovers of good design and creature comforts. Doubles and twins with waterfront or city views start at about €95, a “design panorama” room costs about €125, and a junior suite with sauna, king-size bed and Wi-Fi will set you back €200.
A Small Hotel. 94 Witte de Withstraat, 00-31-10-4140303, asmallhotel.nl. Designed for guests who want to stay “in the right place, in luxury and with privacy” in one of the city’s most vibrant areas. As its name suggests, it has only a few rooms – six, over three floors – and each has its own character and decor. Prices from €125 to €189.
Hotel New York. 1 Koninginnenhofd, 00-31-10-4390500, hotelnewyork.nl. Seems like a strange name for a hotel in Rotterdam, but there’s a reason for it. It’s the renovated old headquarters of Holland America Line, right in the centre of the new harbour redevelopment. All 72 rooms are doubles. Rates range from €125 for a standard room to €260 for an executive tower room with river views.
Delta Hotel. 15 Maasboulevard, 00-31-10- 4345477, deltahotel.nl. This four-star hotel is right on the water, and river taxis stop at its private jetty. Rooms – some with rainwater showers and balconies overlooking the river – start at about €80 for a “nautical” room and rise to abut €400 for the luxurious Red Roses suite, with waterbed, double shower, double Jacuzzi and breakfast.
Hotel Emma. 6 Nieuwe Binnenweg, 00-31-10-4365533, hotelemma.nl. Family-owned for 75 years, Hotel Emma prides itself on its warm welcome and old-fashioned hospitality. In the heart of the city, it has 24 rooms, with rates starting at about €110 for a twin or double and rising to about €155 for a triple – or about €175 for a family quadruple. Prices include breakfast.
5 places to eat
Ivy. 294 Lloydstraat, 00-31-10-4250520, restaurantivy.nl. The restaurant guide SpecialBitevoted Ivy the best restaurant in the Netherlands in 2009. Ivy's owner and head chef is François Geurds, a former assistant to Heston Blumenthal at his three-Michelin-star Fat Duck.
Restaurant Fred. 265 Honingerdijk, 00-31-10-2120110, restaurantfred.nl. Its name may sound casual, but Fred is Rotterdam’s newest Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s named after chef-patron Fred Mustert, one of the Netherlands’ best chefs and the recipient of two previous Michelin stars.
Restaurant De Engel.
19 Eendrachtsweg, 00-31-10-4138256, hermandenblijker.nl. From relatively humble roots in the 1990s, De Engel is now the popular flagship restaurant of controversial TV chef Herman den Blijker, aka the culinary mayor of Rotterdam.
Mooii. 8-16 Oost Wijnstraat, 00-31-10-4112295, restaurantmooii.nl. The name of this restaurant is a play on words: in Dutch, mooimeans nice, and this restaurant lives up to its name. The ambiance is bright, modern and comfortable, and the food is good and reasonably priced. Try the lekkernijen uit de zee(delicacies from the sea): pan-fried langoustines, razor clams and mussels served with a pastis foam. Mooi!
Puur Rotterdam. 101a Noordsingel, 00-31-10-2345235, restaurant-puur.com. The Noordsingel, about five
minutes on foot from the central railway station, is one of the oldest canals in Rotterdam. It’s a traditionally Dutch setting, and this restaurant’s cuisine is also steeped in tradition, using only fresh produce and time-honoured methods.
5 places to go
Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. Museumpark 18-20, 00-31-10-4419400, boijmans.nl. Arguably the best art collection in the Netherlands, which is really saying something. It brings you on a journey from the Middle Ages to the 21st century.
Blijdorp Zoo. Blijdorplaan 8, 00-31-10-4431495, diergaardeblijdorp.nl. This zoo is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Netherlands. The animals are housed in environments that are as close as possible to their natural habitats. The zoo is divided into sections representing different parts of the world – educational in the best sense.
Delfshaven. 00-31-10- 4258878, www.delfshaven. rotterdam.nl. Part of the city of Rotterdam, this little harbour and town, untouched by the bombing of the second World War, is the spot where some of the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for America in 1620. It has been lovingly restored. Take tram 6 or 9.
Euromast. Parkhaven 20, 00-31-10-4364811, euromast.com. At 185m, the Netherlands’ highest tower is a fantastic viewing point for all of Rotterdam. It has super-fast lifts and a restaurant serving lunch and dinner. Tram 8 will get you there.
Pannenkoekenboot. Parkhaven, 00-31-10-4367295, pannenkoekenboot.nl. This one’s for the kids. Well, mostly. As soon as the Pancake Boat casts off – from right next to Euromast, as it happens – on its trip around Rotterdam harbour, you can help yourself to endless quantities of pancakes with an enormous range of toppings.
Hot spot
Dado Rotterdam. 55 Kruiskade, dado-rotterdam.nl. Dado is Rotterdam’s newest cool venue. The former cinema is now an airy cafe and club, popular during the day with businesspeople and tourists (it has free Wi-Fi), and buzzing until the wee hours with music and dance.
Shop spot
Unlike other Dutch cities, where the law forbids it, Rotterdam has Sunday shopping – largely as a result of the city’s huge multi-ethnic population. On Fridays most shops stay open until 9pm. Go to Lijnbaan and Beurstraverse for the big brands. Visit Meent, just east of Coolsingel, for cutting-edge fashion, and the pretty streets of Oud Binnenweg for books and music.
Coffee break
De Ballentent. 1 Parkkade, 00-31-10-4360462, deballentent.nl. Do what the locals do and go here for a coffee or a beer. Twice named harbour cafe of the year, it oozes Rotterdam atmosphere. You’ll find it right on the waterfront, with the park behind you and Euromast just around the corner.