Colourful religious processions fill the streets of Spanish cities during Holy Week – and visitors are encouraged to join in, writes GILLIAN IVORY
GOING TO Spain for Easter? Then celebrate it like the Spanish do by taking part in some of the older traditions on offer.Through the week leading up to Easter Sunday the streets are filled with colourful religious processions that wind through Spain’s towns and villages.
Locals carry enormous lavishly decorated floats bearing ornate figures of Christ and the Virgin, many of which date back to the 16th century. The heroes of the day are the costaleros – droves of up to 200 men belonging to parish fraternities who labour beaneath the thrones, and behind them come rows of solemn pentitents.
Participants dress in full-length robes and capirotes, tall conical hats that cover the face. Carrying rods and banners, they march to the beat of a slow, incessant drum. Crowds of people gather to watch, flanking each side of the street and often accompanying the parade.
But it’s not all serious business; the routes are lined by bars and cafes overflowing with people, and the atmosphere is upbeat and festive. Once the procession is finished, costaleros and penitents join in the party.
Wherever you are travelling to, look out for the more unusual processions. Local tourist offices normally provide details of events. In some the float bearers walk barefoot (no easy feat on the cobblestoned streets of the old quarters), and the most devoted among the penitents do it on their knees.
Some are silent processions, others are candlelight-only affairs. The most moving celebrations involve an encuentro (meeting), when groups carrying separate figures converge in the street. At this point they sway their heavy floats in what looks like a precarious dance of the statues. As the saeta, a mournful flamenco tune sung by a lone performer, rings out a deathly quiet envelops the crowd.
Some of the best places to join in the festivities include Seville, Barcelona, Madrid, Malaga, Tenerife and Cáceres. The choice is yours.
Barcelona
For those with a sweet tooth, Barcelona is the place to be this April. Since the 15th century Catalan godparents have continued the tradition of the mona de pascua, giving a special cake to a godchild at Easter. Originally it was made in the shape of a doughnut and contained between two and 12 boiled eggs, corresponding with the child’s age. These days there are fewer eggs and more chocolate, with bakers and chocolatiers all over the city competing to produce the most elaborate mona.
To see the best of the processions, go to the Raval district, in the old city, on Good Friday afternoon, where the float of the Virgin of Macarena leaves Sant Agusti Church for the cathedral.
On Holy Thursday, travel 40 minutes south of the city to the pretty coastal town of Sitges. The streets are covered in a carpet of flowers, leading to an altar in the main square where the crowds are blessed with a shower of carnations.
Also on Thursday, 90 minutes north of Barcelona at a celebration in Verges, a macabre “dance of death” is performed at night by men dressed as skeletons.
Where to stayCasa Fuster (Passeig de Gràcia 132, 00-34-93-255-3000, www.hotelcasafuster.com) is pure chic, designed by modernista Domènechi Montaner for the aristocratic Fuster family. Grand Hotel Central (Via Layetana 30, 00-34-93-2957900, www.grandhotelcentral.com) edges fashionable Born.
Where to eatAgut (Gignas 16, 00-34-93-3151709, metro Jaume I), in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter, serves both traditional Catalan and European dishes. For tapas go to Mam i Teca, (Lluna 4, El Raval. 00-34-93-4413335, metro Sant Antoni).
Go thereAer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) flies to Barcelona from Dublin, Cork and Belfast. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin and Shannon to Girona.
Madrid
In Easter Week processions wind through the Old Quarter. On Holy Thursday the Jess El Pobre (humble) procession leaves San Pedro Church at 7pm. On Holy Saturday the Soledad procession sets out at 4.30pm from Monasterio del Corpus Christi (Plaza Congreso de Miranda).
Get out of the city on Good Friday and drive 45km south to the old town of Chinchón. A passion play begins with a Last Supper interpretation on the balcony of the town hall.
Where to stayA five-star bed and breakfast concept, Casa de Madrid (Arrieta 2, 00-34-91-5595791, www.casademadrid.com) is opposite the Royal Opera House. If overnighting in Chinchón, the parador (00-34- 91-8940836, www.parador.es) is a beautifully converted monastery off the main square.
Where to eatRestaurante Botin (Cuchilleros 17, 00-34-91-3664217, metro La Latina, www.casabotin.com) has been serving since 1725.
At the plush Capilla de la Bolsa (Calle de la Bolsa 12, 00-34-91-521-8623, metro Sol, www.lacapilladelabolsa.com) performers sing at your table.
Go thereAer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly from Dublin to Madrid.
Malaga
Malaga’s processions are famous for the size of the floats, some of which require more than 200 costaleros. Queen of the Virgins in this city is the Virgen de las Penas (The Virgin of Sorrows), who instead of flaunting the velvet robe seen elsewhere in Andalusia is decked out in thousands of carnations. This year on Holy Monday more than 1,000 students are due to take part in their procession. It starts in the early evening and ends at midnight when the floats converge on Plaza del Obispo in the presence of the Bishop. On Easter Sunday, the Procession of the Resurrection is a colourful afternoon cortege.
Where to stayThe parador (Castillo De Gibralfaro, 00-34- 95-2221902, www.parador.es) looks over the town and bay.
Where to eatOnce a monastery, later a brothel, Bodega El Pimpi (Calle Granada 62, 00-34-95-2228990) oozes atmosphere. For great tapas go to Lo Güeno (Marín García 9, 00-34-95- 2223048).
Go thereAer Lingus ( www.aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin, Cork and Belfast to Malaga. Ryanair (www. ryanair.com) flies from Dublin and Shannon.
Tenerife
The old town of Adeje stages a passion play. More than 300 locals take part, starting at noon on Good Friday (Calle Grande del Casco). An hour’s drive takes you away from the tourist areas to La Laguna. This Unesco World Heritage site holds the most spiritual of the island’s Easter processions. On Good Friday the Magna procession leaves from the 500-year-old Nuestra Senora de la Concepción church, followed by a candlelit silent procession. More celebrations take place across the island in Güímar, Garachico and Los Realejos.
Where to stayBudget Travel has packages to Hotel Bahía del Duque, in Costa Adeje. In La Laguna, try Nivaria Aparthotel (Plaza del Adelantado 11, 00-34- 922-264298, www.hotelnivaria.com).
Where to eatIn Adeje, Bodegón Damary (Avenida de la Constitución, 00-34-922- 710327) prepares traditional island food. In La Laguna, try Bodega Patio Canario (Manuel de Ossuna, 00-34-92-2264657). Go there Budget Travel (01-6311075, www.budget travel.ie), Falcon (1850-946164, www.falconholidays.ie) and Sunway (01-2311888, www.sun way.ie) offer Easter packages.
Cáceres
A Unesco World Heritage site because of its blend of medieval and renaissance architecture, Cáceres is the capital of Extremadura, an economically poor but culturally rich and beautiful area. It’s also famed for its Easter celebrations, in particular the medieval-style procession of the 14th century statue Cristo Negro (Black Jesus), on Easter Wednesday.
Where to stayThe modern Extremadura Hotel (Avda Virgen de Guadalupe 28, 00-34-927-629639, www. extremadurahotel.com) is right in the centre. For something with more character, the local parador (Ancha 6, 00-34-927- 211759, www.parador.es) is housed in a 14th-century palace built on Moorish foundations.
Where to eatAtrio (Avenida España 30, 00-34-92-724-2928, www.restauranteatrio.com), a two-star Michelin restaurant led by chef Tono Pérez, is one of the best. Restaurante El Figón de Eustaquio (Plaza San Juan 12-14, 00-34-92-7244362, www.elfigondeeustaquio.com) serves good regional dishes.
Go thereFly to Lisbon with Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com) or Seville with Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Cáceres is a three-hour drive from Seville and a little more from both Lisbon and Madrid.
Seville
With 57 parish fraternities, some of which date back to the Middle Ages, and each with its own procession, the streets of Andalusia’s capital are teeming during Holy Week. At the centre of it all is the city’s magnificent cathedral, among the world’s largest and famed for its imposing Giralda Tower. The processions start from the home parish, but all make their way to the cathedral, so at the busiest times up to 15 processions can be in progress at once. Midnight on Good Friday is the highlight, when they leave the churches and move slowly through the town, arriving at the cathedral in the early hours of the morning. The final lap of the official route goes from La Campaña to Calle Sierpes to the cathedral. To get a good look at the proceedings, book seats in one of the grandstands erected in the main square. Seville has a number of shops that sell penitents’ robes, including the strangely conical capirote head-dress, so even enthusiastic visitors have the chance to wear the full garb.
Where to stayModern and minimalist, the Petit Palace Marqués Santa Ana (Calle Jimios 9-11, 00-34-95-4221812, www.hotelmarquessantaana.com) is very central. Hospes Las Casas del Rey de Baeza (Santiago 2, Plaza Jesus De La Redencion, 00-34-95- 4561496) has a pretty, whitewashed 18th-century facade.
Where to eatFor local wines and great tapas, go to Patio San Eloy (Calle San Eloy 9). El Giraldillo (Plaza Virgen de los Reyes 2, 00-34-95-4214525) is a traditional restaurant with good local fare. During the late-night processions make your way to the bars on Alameda de Hercules.
Go thereFrom March 31st Ryanair (www.ryanair. com) will recommence flights from Dublin to Seville.