Millennia of erosion has reduced Ireland's oldest mountains to a modest height, so that these once Alp-like peaks are now a much more inviting place for walkers, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
THE NAME IS a public- relations dream, evoking compelling images of shapely peaks and flower- fragrant valleys.
And, in ages past, image and reality would likely have been as one. Among our oldest mountain ranges, the Slieve Bloom once soared to Alpine heights. Radically reduced by relentless weathering, these much- diminished hills now rise to a mere 526m at Arderin – a summit that was once, inexplicably, regarded as Ireland’s highest.
The lack of skyscraping peaks, the whaleback character of the main ridge and the sometimes overplanted and tiresome terrain mean that the Blooms have become something of an unloved range, regularly bypassed by walkers heading for the more aesthetically appealing peaks of our west coast.
Certainly, our most centrally situated upland region lacks glaciated coums and breathtaking five-star ridges, but it compensates with a rich folklore, many echoes from times past and abundant gentler circuits for ramblers who like having the time to stop and stare.
Ten such outings that best tell us the Slieve Bloom story are outlined in local man Tom Joyce’s engaging and wellillustrated little book Bladma: Walks of Discovery in Slieve Bloom.
My favourite walk begins in scenic Glenbarrow (see panel). From the sylvan car park, follow the directional arrows downhill into mixed woodland. Continue with the arrows over a footbridge, then upstream by the bank of the infant River Barrow to the next footbridge, which is also crossed.
Now proceed upstream, passing the hard-to-spot remains of a once-busy sandstone quarry before arriving at three-drop Clamphole Waterfall, a favourite haunt of family groupings and quite spectacular after heavy rainfall.
The path now weaves nonchalantly uphill past a parting (yellow arrow) with the Slieve Bloom Way, which you should ignore. Immediately afterwards a small dilemma presents itself. If time is short you can follow a blue arrow (left) steeply uphill, then go left again on a forest road from where all further arrows will point you back to the starting point, which is reached in an easy 30-minute ramble.
The better option, however, is to follow the red arrow (right), into a sometimes boggy woodland where you will again be closely acquainted with the River Barrow.
When you reach an area of cleared forest, further evidence appears that this area once supported a thriving and industrious community.
Look out first for the ruins of a stone farmhouse on your left and, soon after, for the remains of a mill beside the river.
Just beyond the mill site, a red arrow points uphill to join a forestry road, where you bear left. At the next junction don’t follow the red arrow but go right and upwards on a track that crosses a mound and soon leads to a small car park.
After the claustrophobia of forest walking, it is well worth making the short ascent behind the car park on to the Ridge of Capard. Here, fine views are immediately on offer along the moorland crest to a prominent cairn known as the Stony Man and, beyond, over the Slieve Bloom range and surrounding counties.
There is also lamentable evidence of landscapes scarred by quad bikes. Welcome bylaws have now banned such unwelcome mechanical intrusions, and the area has been returned to its original serenity.
Return to the Capard car park, then follow your original track for a short distance, until a yellow arrow points (left) downhill. Take this option; soon you will be on a well-maintained forest road on which you swing right. All arrows now lead one way towards a downhill path into woodland.
Take this path, which is quite muddy in places, to traverse mixed woodland and exit on a forestry road.
Go right and within 100m you are back to your parking place.
Glenbarrow, Co Laois
Starting pointRosenallis village, Co Laois, is six kilometres from Mountmellick on the R422. From here, follow the minor road at the Catholic church. After two and a half kilometres, swing right and continue for two kilometres more before turning left at a crossroads signposted for Glenbarrow. The small car park at the end of this road is your starting point.
TimeAllow two and a half hours. The shorter circuit – marked out with blue arrows – should take about 90 minutes.
SuitabilityThe route is entirely on waymaked tracks and presents few navigational difficulties. The terrain can be uneven, however, and includes several boggy patches. So wear sturdy boots with gaiters and carry a rainjacket.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 54.
Food and accommodationAccommodation details for the area are available at www.mountmellick.net. Otherwise Tullamore, about 25km distant, offers a comprehensive range of hospitality services. Details from Tullamore Tourist Office, 057-9352617.