Knocknarea is a perfect challenge to kill a few hours, with terrific views of the countryside and coastline from its summit, writes Paul Cullen
SO YOU'RE IN Sligo on business, you have a few free hours and the sun is shining. Or you're driving north towards Donegal and you just happen to have a pair of runners in the car when you see this hill off in the distance to the left . . .
Knocknarea (325m) is that sort of mountain - tempting, generous in the views it offers of six surrounding counties, and yet easily accessible and attainable. The sort of peak to bag before breakfast or while you're waiting for the surf to come up at its foot, in Strandhill, Co Sligo.
From the beach in Strandhill, it presents a forbidding face, all sheer escarpment and dense forest. However, most people nip around the back of the mountain, where there's a rocky path and even a car park, before ascending to the top.
Queen Maeve, the mythical queen of Connaught, may or may not be buried under the large mound of stones at the top - supposedly, she is buried upright, facing her enemies in Ulster - but you sense the local tourist board is happy that this is one archaeological mystery that hasn't yet been solved. According to the information tablet erected by Sligo county council, the mound might contain a passage grave like that known at Newgrange and was probably erected circa 2500 BC. Like Newgrange and Knowth, it also has smaller satellite tombs around it.
The foundations of five hut sites have been found about 400m to the northeast, and excavations here have uncovered hundreds of flint scrapers and arrowheads, a polished stone axe and some pottery.
The mound, now about 10m in height, continues to receive tribute as walkers add stones to the pile; some say this is to ensure Maeve never rises again. Yet it is also suffering erosion, as thousands of feet trample over the cairn each year. Local charities regularly bring large numbers up and erect banners on the mound and some visitors even remove stones to write their names in giant letters in the heather. The Office of Public Works has erected signs at the base of the climb warning walkers not to walk on the mound.
The views from the summit are good enough anyway, without the need to clamber over Maeve's stones. Ben Bulben and the nearby airport at Strandhill should be easy to spot on a fair day, but in good conditions, look farther for Slieve League and the Donegal coastline to the north, the Ox Mountains and Croagh Patrick in Co Mayo to the southwest, and Lough Gill to the east.
As with most walks, there is a short and a long option. The short route starts from the car park at the back of the mountain, from where it takes about 45 minutes to reach the top. From Strandhill, travel right along the R292 and take a left turn signposted "scenic route". This small road climbs gradually around the mountain, offering panoramic views over Ballisodare Bay. At a bend, there is a signpost for Queen Maeve's Cairn. From the carpark, a path leads to the summit. The track gets rougher and steeper near the top, but it's never more than slightly challenging.
For a longer outing, you might consider starting the walk in Strandhill. There's a large car park in the town, from where you head uphill, branching left and then left again on to the R292. After about a kilometre, take a small right turn that leads up the north side of the mountain and the High Brae. At the first crossroads, at Grange East, turn right uphill towards Primrose Hill guest house. The car park is then on the right, down a lane.
After you've climbed the mountain and returned down to the car park, turn right out of the car-park junction and continue along the flat, straight road that eventually drops down to the main Strandhill Road. From here it's an up-and-down road walk back to the village. Tired muscles can be soothed in the Voya seaweed baths - but, unfortunately, the beach is not safe for swimming.
Knocknarea, Co Sligo
Starting point:Strandhill is about six kilometres from Sligo on the R292.
Time / distance:The walk from the car park to the top of Knocknarea takes about 45 minutes, and half that to return. The distance is about four kilometres in total. Allow about three and a half hours for the longer, 15km route, starting in Strandhill.
Suitability:This walk is suitable for most walking abilities. The early part of the trail can be quite wet, but after that the going underfoot is as dry as it get in the hills of Connaught. On the longer route be careful of road traffic, especially on the sections along the R292.
Accommodation and food:Strandhill offers plenty of choice for good food, including Strand House bar and restaurant (071-9168140). Bed and breakfast is available at the Dunes Tavern (Top Road, Strandhill, 071-9168131), Knocknarea B&B and Strandhill Lodge and Holiday Hostel (both on Shore Road, 071-9168313). Voya seaweed baths are at 071-9168686, www.voya.ie
Ordnance Survey of Ireland Discovery series sheet 25