The beauty of this pilgrim path proves memorable for JOHN G O'DWYER
St Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path. Ever heard of it? Nor had I, until it sallied unexpectedly over the horizon and invaded my consciousness. It seemed I had to check it out and so a few weeks ago I arrived at the trailhead in Keakill, Co Cork to complete the second half of this pilgrim path to Gougane Barra.
Here I followed a shaded byroad that gradually rose into the hill country. After about 30 minutes of pleasant but unspectacular walking, I left the tarmac and followed the arrows to ascend Knockbreteen Hill where memorable views abounded. Descending northwest down a steep, undulating firebreak I reached Maugha Road where signs pointed reassuringly right. Following these for about 2km, while thinking what a lonely isolated place it is, I reached a gate bearing a comforting welcome sign.
Soon after, the hardcore trail was no more and immediately I began sinking into an egregious marsh. I used to think trees couldn’t survive in a bog, but apparently they can, for when I entered woodland the going remained wet and trying. It’s only for a short distance, though, and then I was glad to place my boots firmly on Lackavane Road. Now it was just a question of swinging left with a huge wind farm filling the horizon to my right. Twenty minutes later I reached the end of the tarmac. Here it was left and up an avenue, passing by an incongruously located herd of Scottish Highland cattle. Then I continued through a rough field to reach a lane at the back of a blue painted farmhouse.
Initially a rather strenuous climb up a firm, stony lane led to Lackavane Ridge from where a fence took me unerringly upwards. Near the top, the path undulated a bit and then crossed a stile between two lakes. Just beyond, I suddenly came upon awe-inspiring views from the great Cúm Rua cliffs to St Finbarr’s Church and the startlingly photogenic lake at Gougane Barra.
It was captivating. I spent an inordinate amount of time gazing at the sublime view below, as many generations of pilgrims past must also have done. Eventually, I followed a fence to the right that gently rose to the fine viewing point of Foilastookeen (500m).
From here the invaluable yellow markers of the Beara-Breifne Way led to a stile at the corner of a wood. Crossing this, I came upon a rough track that dog-legged down past some farm buildings. Eventually it emerged on the floor of the valley beside a thatched toilet block.
The sign outside stated that this edifice won Ireland’s “toilet of the year” award. Unfortunately, the building was locked.
Instead, I rambled up the valley towards Cronin’s Hotel while reflecting upon the timeless allure and immutable rustic charm of the landscape. When the carrot of cash from mass tourism is dangled temptingly, even the most sublime locations tend to soon surrender their most cherished values. Not so Gougane Barra, however, which continues staunchly and unswervingly true to its ageless appeal.
WALKS ST FINBARR'S PILGRIM PATH:
Difficulty:Ireland's best laid- out pilgrim path, with the route well marked. It's a strenuous outing traversing a considerable amount of high, isolated terrain so walkers should be equipped for high-level hillwalking
Getting there:From Cork city take the N22 Macroom. Follow the R585 through Crookstown and on to Keakill Village. Begin at Carriganass Castle
Time:5 hours
Distance:14km
Map:OSI, Discovery Series, Sheet 85