GO CITYBREAK:The German city of Bremen, setting for one of the Grimm brothers' stories, combines ancient and modern to lively effect, writes Conor Gallagher
SCHÖN KLEIN, a German phrase for good things that come in small packages, perfectly sums up the beautiful medieval city of Bremen, in northwest Germany.
Its narrow streets and squares pack in a huge amount while retaining the charm of a friendly town, and history buffs will be enthralled by Bremen's imposing churches and cathedrals.
Stay out past 10pm and the city unexpectedly jumps into action, with its lively student nightlife contrasting wonderfully with the ornate civic buildings.
A 10-minute journey took us from the airport to the city centre. Train travellers have it even easier, with the station a stone's throw from the high street.
Our first task on arrival was to make our way through the twisting cobblestone streets until they opened into Marktplatz, the main town square.
Here we located the tourist information centre and, after finding our bearings, decided to relax with a glass of the locally brewed Becks in one of the many small cafes that line the square.
From there you can see several examples of Bremen's long history. A four-metre statue of the legendary knight Roland, a symbol of early capitalism, keeps a watchful eye over St Peter's Cathedral.
We took a fascinating tour around this 1,200-year-old building and were greeted with the unexpected sight of eight mummified corpses lying in open coffins, which was not a view for the squeamish.
The square also contains the Town Musicians of Bremen sculpture, which depicts the characters in the Grimm brothers' fairly tale. It's easily found because of the crowds of parents lifting their children to touch the donkey's nose for luck.
Right beside this, the ridiculously ornate facade of the Renaissance town hall could have kept us entranced for hours with its hundreds of stone carvings and statues.
Locals are friendly and happy to direct tourists to the main sights. One common recommendation is the Universum Science Museum, 10 minutes from the centre and, like all of Bremen, easily accessible by tram.
The huge oyster-shaped building allows visitors to experience a ride in a submarine or to test their nerve in an earthquake simulator.
A pre-dinner stroll should take in the fascinating Böttcherstrasse, possibly the world's only art-nouveau street. Built in 1931, it comprises a golden entrance to a lane of towering red-brick buildings.
Dotted along it are beer halls, high-class clothes shops and expensive art galleries. The focal point is Haus Atlantis, now the Bremen Hilton, which houses a stunning stained-glass spiral staircase.
We walked to the Schnoor district for dinner, enjoying a delicious seafood meal in one of the area's tiny family-run restaurants. Bremen may not have a hugely eclectic food scene, but it does do simple, tasty dishes that come in big portions.
The romantic streets of this fishing district are perfect for an amble before continuing the evening. Guidebooks advise young people to check out Rembertiring Street for dancing and bars, but they are all quite indistinct and pricey.
Locals will also warn of recent violence in the area, as gangs vie for control of the various clubs.
Better to head for the lively Das Viertel student area, where you can find a mix of trendy jazz bars and clubs playing various forms of electro.
For a €2 entry fee we spent the night at a student party in a converted convent, listening to a German ska band and drinking subsidised beer - an unusual but hugely enjoyable experience.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go in the city
5 places to stay
1 Jugendherberge Bremen. Kalkstrasse 6, 00-49-421- 163820, www.jugendherberg. de/jh/bremen. This youth hostel offers simple, comfortable dorms and an amazing view of the surrounding area from its rooftop terrace. Yellow panels and slit-thin windows combine to make the outside look like a piece of modern art. Double from €56, dorm from €21.
2 Park Hotel. Bürgerpark, 00-49-421-34080, www.park- hotel- bremen.de. This stunning building in the middle of a scenic park looks more like a presidential palace than a hotel. Double from €235.
3 Hotel Uberfluss. Langenstrasse 72, 00-49-421-322860, www.hotel- ueberfluss.com. A boutique hotel in the middle of Bremen. Stunning design, but pricey rooms. It has a boat where guests can hold deck parties on the river - for an extra cost, of course. Doubles from €180.
4 Mercure Hotel Columbus Bremen. Bahnhofsplatz 5-7, 00-49-421-30120, www.mercure.com. Simple, cheap and central, this nautically themed hotel is right in front of the train station and about five minutes from the centre of the city. For the traveller who doesn't intend on spending much time in the hotel but still wants a comfortable bed at night. Doubles from €69.
5 Ramada Überseehotel Bremen. Am Markt/ Wachtstrasse 27-29, 00-49-421- 3601555, www.ramada.de. One for the culture vultures, this plush hotel is on the market square beside the Concert Hall, Goethe Theatre and Musical Theatre. Try some of the local dishes in the restaurant, but avoid the home-brewed beer. Doubles from €115.
5 places to eat
1 Energie Café. Corner of Sögestrasse/Am wall, 00-49-421-2772510. Perhaps unique among restaurants, the aptly named Energie Café is run by the local power company. Trendy and upbeat, it serves cut-price lunches to a mostly student crowd. Mains €3.50 to €12.50.
2 Restaurant Flett. Böttcherstrasse 3-5, 00-49-421-320995. Though an obvious tourist trap, this giant beer hall serves several tasty examples of north German cuisine. Try the labskaus, a beef, pork and herring dish that more than makes up for the kitsch interior. Mains €7 to €15.
3 Katzen Cafe. Schnoor 38, 00-49-421-326621. This ornate open-air restaurant specialises in fresh seafood cooked to perfection. Mains €8.50 to €16.50.
4 Schroter's. Schnoor 13, 00-49-421-326677. Our tastiest dining experience. The menu concentrates on Mediterranean and Italian cuisine, but again the fish is the option to go for. Mains €11 to €18.
5 Café Engel. Ostertorstein- weg 31, 00-49-421-79615. If the sun is shining, grab a table outside this former pharmacy, now an arty student cafe. Simple and filling meals are complemented by the cool, tiled interior. Mains €6 to €12.
5 places to go
1 Universum Science Museum. Wiener Strasse 2, 00-49-421-33460, www. universum-bremem.de. You could lose a day in this huge building filled with interactive experiments. Get there before October, so as not to miss the chocolate exhibition.
2 Deutsches Auswanderer-haus. Columbusstrasse 65, Bremerhaven, 00-49-421- 902200, www.dah-bremer haven.de. A museum chronicling the millions who emigrated from Germany to the US.
3 Glockenspiel.Böttcherstrasse 4. Thirty porcelain bells chime hourly from this revolving tower to honour sailors such as Christopher Columbus.
4 Übersee Museum. Bahnhofplatz 13, 00-49-421- 16038101, www.uebersee- museum.de. A huge collection of ancient artifacts from Africa and South America.
5 Werder Bremen Museum. Franz-Böhmert Strasse 1, 00-49-1805-937337, www.werder.de. Home of the Werder Bremen football club and the famous Miroslav Klöse. The stadium's modern museum showcases the club's history.
Hot spot
• Lemon Lounge. Am Wall 164, 00-49-421-5148855. Enjoy a cocktail from the 30-page menu in this former Playboybar of the year.
Shopping
• The Schnoor district is where to go for hand-crafted jewellery. Das Viertel has shops selling alternative streetwear. Don't miss Hachez, on Market Square, for chocolate.
Go there
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) serves Bremen from Dublin several times a week.