Emmett Goulding, who has died aged 77, had a distinguished mountaineering career as the leading Irish rock climber and alpinist of the early 1960s and the single greatest influence on Irish alpinism.
He grew up in Fairview in Dublin and like many of his generation it was through scouting that he was first introduced to the outdoors. This was followed by hillwalking with An Óige and his first rock climb in Glendalough in 1959.
He became a member of the Irish Mountaineering Club and progressed to climbing in the Alps. Though a very talented rock climber, it was the varied challenges of alpine mountaineering that caught his imagination and ambition. His impressive alpine career, almost entirely in the Mont Blanc range, is testament to his courage and ability.
In 1961, with partner Tony Ingram he climbed the West Face of the Dru above Chamonix. This was a major undertaking, made more serious by stormy conditions, and was the hardest route climbed by an Irish pair to date.
Alpine challenges
During subsequent summer seasons he was successful (with various partners) on many of the greatest alpine challenges of the day. These included the east face of the Grand Capucin, the south face of the Dent du Géant, Route Major, and the north faces of the Charmoz, the Plan and the Dru.
Record-keeping among climbers was somewhat haphazard during this era, particularly when the subject was as modest as Goulding, but it is likely that some of his achievements, such as climbing all three of the major routes on the Dru, were firsts for any climber in Ireland or Britain. He showed the same flair and commitment on climbs such as the Walker Spur when he returned to the Alps some 20 years later.
As a member of four major Irish expeditions to unclimbed peaks he was valued for his skill and steadiness. These were to Rakaposhi (Karakoram, 1964) the Andes (1968 and 1980) and Kishtwar (Himalayas 1977). These trips yielded two first ascents - Chainapuerto (Peru) and Khel Parbat (India).
His talent as a climber is evident from the quality of his new routes at Glendalough, Fair Head and in the Donegal mountains – climbs that are still approached with respect 50 years later in spite of huge advances in equipment and training.
Apart from a year spent in Manchester in the mid-1960s (to pursue his climbing career) his working life was with the family painting and decorating firm in Dublin.
For many years he lived in Swords with his wife, Nóirín, and gave much time to coaching hurling and camogie in the local GAA club. Forever at home in the wild, his interests in wildlife and photography came to the fore when he and his wife retired to her home place of Downings, in the Donegal Gaeltacht, and where he also took the opportunity to improve his mastery of Irish.
He is survived by Nóirín, son Cormac, daughter Aifric and three grandchildren.