Having your dinner in an off-licence certainly ticks the novelty box. Choosing a beer feels a bit like helping yourself to a friend’s amazingly well-stocked fridge.

Your seat, on the other hand, comes with the guaranteed entertainment of watching people come and go, browsing the shelves, paying and heading off with bottles tucked under their arms.

Holland’s in Bray, Co Wicklow has introduced a new sit-in service with the front part of the off-licence given over to tables, with wines and beers in the back.

The menu has straight-up, tasty offerings such as chicken wings, "loaded" fries and "big dog burgers" that wouldn't look out of place on the Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives TV show.

I take a can of Little Fawn Session IPA from Sligo brewery White Hag from the fridge. It’s crisp with a grapefruit and passion fruit flavour that works very nicely with my Jerk Chicken Salad.

The Ham Hock Po Boy – which is top notch – is a good match for Weird Beard’s Little Things That Kill, which is full of hoppy flavour for a 3.9 per cent session pale ale.

There’s a bit of hype about Manchester brewery Cloudwater lately (recently arrived into Irish off-licences) and its DIPA V6 is truly delicious with tropical fruit and a soft body. At 9 per cent, it is perfect for sharing.

Holland’s has a selection of more than 350 beers, staff who know what they’re talking about (and are happy to give recommendations) and there’s no corkage fee.

It’s a neat idea that makes for a refreshingly relaxed, early-evening dining experience. It’s also perfect for the type of person often let down by the quality and range of beers available in restaurants.

Just as our plates are being cleared away, a taxi pulls up outside and two women rush in and out again – a quick stop before the weekend kicks off. @ITbeerista beerista@irishtimes.com