As London Fashion Week Men's, the bi-annual showcase of the best shirting, suiting and in some cases the silliest of fashion trends, comes to a close, we've rounded up six things you need to take away from the recent menswear collections:
1: Skinny Jeans might be on their way out
After a decade of skinny cuts, trousers are getting baggy-as-you-like wider. At Topman Design voluminous trousers were shown high-waisted and pleated, designer Raimund Berthold demonstrated an urban take on the wide-leg trouser teaming them with fluid parkas and bomber jackets. While at Kent & Curwen, a brand backed by David Beckham, vertical stripes reigned victorious as well as head-boy style jackets, and an modern update on the cricket trouser done in lightweight flannel. At E.Tautz, cuffed high-waisted loose trousers were de rigueur for a fashion-forward fellow.
2: Florals for spring were groundbreaking
Although florals for spring is not altogether groundbreaking when it comes to womenswear, budding prints for men were cutting-edge as gender-fluid themes dominated the catwalks. Luxurious floral silk sports jackets teamed with metallic lace vests and velvet tracksuit pants featured heavily at Danish designer Astrid Andersen. While designer Alex Mullins showcased the man-floral reboot with a bright daisy print that wound its way on fluid silk blouses, suits and wide-leg trousers.
3: Power suits were big players
Masterfully playing with volume, suits came in power-shouldered and plentifully trousered, most notably at Martine Rose, where tailoring had a touch of Talking Heads’ David Byrne. High-street stalwart Topman entitled their collection “Modern Romantics”, taking inspiration from 1980s club culture complete with eyeliner, boldly oversized tailoring.
Continuing the retro theme was designer John Lawrence Sullivan with his version of 1980s-style sci-fi meets post punk, showcasing a rosy pink suit with chunky boots and Matrix-esque glasses.
4: Fila is making a street-wear comeback
Adidas has Kanye and Puma has Rihanna, but Fila, the down-to-earth Italian sports label has cleverly collaborated with London’s freshest and newest designer Liam Hodges. Using a variety of archive pieces from the brands’ rich heritage, including classic panelled polo shirts, multicoloured Henleys and low-tops shown in modern pastel shades, the collection was also contrasted with additional slogan pieces brandishing phrases sporadically throughout the collection such as “Faster Faster Faster” and “Noise.”
5: Gorpcore is the new Normcore
Fleece jackets, raincoats, bumbags, and hiking boots, once the reserve of outdoorsy types, these items have become the mainstay of street-style stars, celebrities and featured heavily on runway shows alike. Enter, "gorpcore", a term coined by New York Magazine that refers to fashion design that is influenced by countryside style. Outdoorsy pursuits – or rather the outdoorsy wardrobe with its practicality – is becoming fashionable. Christopher Raeburn showed off his collection of all-weather garments and shoes that could withstand desert, wind and sun. Other designers explored similar territory, including Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell of Cottwellier. They experimented with technical fabrics and had models strutting around caravans toting square water carriers that you'd usually see on a campsite.
6: Hats had buckets of charm
Floppy headgear, the kind you’d see on babies at the beach, was having a moment and not just on the catwalks. Bez from the Happy Mondays and Britpop fashion trendsetter Liam Gallagher were both spotted with these on their noggins. Adding a street-wear feel mixed with an utilitarian touch, designer Bobby Abley also nodded to the gropcore movement with his luxe version in leather complete with sensible strings.
