Among the celebrities who came out in force for the Burberry show at London Fashion Week was a windswept Kate Moss, who arrived in Kensington Gardens in a black-fringed poncho causing a photographic frenzy.
Fringed ponchos, as it turned out, were key to this collection, a bohemian mix of pattern, print and patchwork-inspired old quilts.
Cowboy fringes flew everywhere from floor-length leather coats and capes to skirts and bucket bags, a modern prairie girl look extending to folksy tiered floral dresses reminiscent of Woodstock though with sporty bodices and sweetheart necklines.
With this show Christopher Bailey copperfastened the 1970s trend so prevalent in London this week, driving it home with throaty versions of 1960s and 1970s hits sung live by Clare Maguire.
Craftsmanship
A series of dresses with mirror embroidery that closed the show were particularly beautiful and highlighted the craftsmanship of the whole collection.
“My heart is fluttering,” sighed the woman beside me after Erdem’s show in the rundown shell of the former Old Selfridges Hotel on a set that recreated 1950s interiors.
A glittering collection in every sense, the dresses in rich metallic brocades, jacquards, crochet lace, knobby tweeds and laser-cut leather were a tour-de-force in how to master texture and colour in new and arresting ways.
Contoured
Shapes ranged from contoured 1950s styles to baby doll tents and in a clever mix of day and evening, long dresses with lavishly embroidered hems were topped with polo-neck sweaters while wool coats melded into silk hems.
Luxurious fabrics with whimsical details such as oversize buttons and pompoms marked out Osman’s collection at the Tate. The London-based designer of Afghan origin restricted the palette, the better to show off his familiar silhouettes.
Flared trousers reappeared but with ankle ties; frills and ruffle necks softened many shapes while coats were either quilted wraps, fake fur Teddy styles or coated with shiny cellophane.
Most romantic of all were dresses in silver and blue brocades – shiny, starry affairs made for moonlight.
