FASHION:OF ALL THE things the "Oirish" are known for, fashion is not high on the list. There is no disrespect intended to those involved in our fashion industry, but even they would have to admit that they come in behind the craic agus ceoil, smiling eyes and dancing feet, Bono, Michael Flatley, Sinéad O'Connor and the Corrs, even behind Aran jumpers – although they could, at a stretch, be classified as "fashion".
When it comes to fashion, there are a few names that come to mind: Paul Costelloe, John Rocha, Orla Kiely and Peter O’Brien, followed by young guns Pauric Sweeney, JW Anderson, Simone Rocha and Una Burke. But there are lesser-known names, gradually becoming more prominent, with one thing in common: they’re all based here.
Design graduates are faced with two choices: stay in Ireland and struggle to stay afloat in a small, quickly diminishing industry; or go abroad and find their footing in a well established and supported industry.
But with the recession has come a new trend. While engineers, doctors and construction workers flee the country, several young fashion designers have put down roots at home, whether by chance or (if you’ll excuse the pun) by design.
Technology has played a big part in allowing designers to operate from our tiny island. With the advent of high-speed broadband, the divide between Ireland, the UK, Europe and the US has narrowed considerably. “I really believe you can be based anywhere, in the West of Ireland or in Alaska, and it doesn’t make a difference,” says Joanne Hynes, whose home is in Ringsend and describes herself as being “anchored” in Ireland. “It works well for personal reasons,” she says. Hynes just gave birth to her daughter, Fainche. “But travel is really important with work – it’s unavoidable with fashion weeks in London and Paris, and manufacturing in Italy.”
Merle O’Grady is another designer who does a lot of her manufacturing in Italy and France. “So being in the euro zone is genuinely making life easier,” she says. O’Grady recently moved back to Ireland after years living and working in the UK, selling jewellery from a stall at Spitalfields market. “The ease of doing business in Ireland has been great,” she says. “There’s a warmth and openness when it comes to sharing information here that I didn’t come across quite so much in the UK.”
Natalie Coleman is based in Monaghan. Her designs were recently worn by pop singer Marina the Diamonds, and her work has been praised online by Susanna Lau of stylebubble.co.uk, arguably the UK's most important fashion blogger.
For Coleman, being in Ireland hasn’t hindered the development of her line. “It’s a small industry for selling, because it’s a smaller population – but I don’t think it stops you from doing anything.”
Living and working from a country with no dedicated manufacturing industry is a stumbling block, she says. “It makes it a little bit more difficult because you don’t get funding.” Coleman has been trying to embrace Irish traditions and to incorporate some native manufacturing methods into her work. “I’ve started working with a lovely lacemaker in Monaghan, and I know a few other people doing stuff with older traditions, so then there’s a uniqueness to what we can do.”
Jennifer Rothwell, who is based in Dublin, echoes Coleman’s desire to see manufacturing happen more often here. “I believe there will be a return to garment manufacturing in Ireland,” she says. “I’m campaigning actively to promote this initiative.”
Every designer interviewed speaks of a lack of support for the industry on a nationwide scale, comparing Ireland to the UK, where the British Fashion Council supports and endorses a number of designers each year and recognises the contribution the fashion industry makes to the economy as a whole.
“I don’t think the fashion industry is taken seriously as a business here,” says Doyle. “In London, people have become really aware of the amount of money the fashion industry pumps into the UK. But it’s still seen as quite frivolous here.”
Coleman agrees. “It would be nice to get a little bit more support,” she says, then pauses and laughs softly. “But I’m always banging on about not getting enough support.”
O’Grady is pragmatic. While recognising that the “fashion industry just isn’t big enough here”, she says that the industry needs to accept that “exporting is the key to really growing a business from Ireland”.
They all agree that there’s no reason we shouldn’t be exporting our fashion designers, just as we export our Guinness, Michael Flatley, craic and our ceoil. Being in Ireland, says O’Grady, is pretty good, and she can think of only one major con: “The price of a post-work GT.”
Striped knit, €180 by Maje at Brown Thomas
Exporting is the key to growing a business from Ireland
What am I supposed to wear to a wedding if not black?
I need help picking a dress for a wedding. My budget is €150. I usually steer away from patterns and colour and go for black, so I would love to try something different.
Tara, by email
Well, as wearing black is, next to white, the ultimate sin when it comes to wedding attire, I’m glad you’ve come to me for help. It’s tempting to go for black dresses as coloured numbers can be a little too fussy and veer towards the frou frou side of fashionable.
This blue one from Warehouse (€84) is cute and appropriate for a wedding but not too far from your trusted black. It will look great paired with some statement necklaces (try H&M for some gorgeous metallic pieces) and a pair of nude heels. A high ponytail would work really well, too – so your look would be simple without being boring.
Carraig Donn isn’t somewhere we always think of for partywear, but this purple dress by Daisy May (€139.95) is a real show-stopper. Its sleeves will cover that area most loathed by a lot of us, the upper arm, while the cowl neckline will create the illusion of cleavage.
Plus, it’s a really easy piece, needing no accessorising bar shoes and bag. I’d recommend black, but a touch of turquoise – perhaps from Anna dello Russo’s HM collection? – would look great, too.
If you want to combine your love of black with your desire to venture into prints, this dress from Monsoon (€85) is a good way of dipping your toe in the water, and will work as well with black tights and a blazer for a more daytime or work-appropriate look as it will with bare legs, strappy sandals and gold ethnic-inspired earrings at a wedding.
It’s machine-washable to boot, which is always a plus in our book.
What style of hat would look good on this gentleman?
In times past, gentlemen in hats were quite ubiquitous. Apart from being very practical on rainy and sunny days, hats look great and can be very stylish. But in contemporary Ireland, rarely do we see more than a baseball cap or occasional sun hat. What are the different styles of gentlemen’s hats and which would you be well to be seen in this autumn?
Shane, by email
Shane, while I admire the fervour with which you approach the whole “gentlemen in hats” debate, a word of caution: in recent times, men in hats have fallen into one of two categories: hipsters or “hoodies”, the latter category fond of your familiar baseball cap.
The word “hipster”, though it is a loose and wide definition, includes for good or for ill any man who decides to wear a hat for any purpose that is not practical. This handily excludes sun hats, baseball caps (but only while exercising) and stetsons (but only while riding horses).
There are, however, moments when you will see, out of the corner of your eye, a man wearing a hat and think, well, doesn’t he look dapper. He will, more often than not, be wearing expensive clothing, have a very good hairdo and be French. A flat cap is one of the easiest styles to wear, in that as long as you have a jaunty grin and a three-day shadow, you’ll look okay. Just don’t come over all Guy Ritchie and pair yours with head-to-toe tweed. This number from River Island (€xx) is an easy entry-point piece to try out some headwear. Pair it with a camel-coloured mac (Zara has some good options) for a simple mode of chic.
If you are feeling brave, this wool trilby by Bailey of Hollywood at Asos (€71.08) is a beautiful take on a classic. It’s black, so it will go with most colours and the feather gives it a jaunty kick. Try it with a double-breasted blazer and, if you want to dress, by the book, as per my advice, a jewel-coloured shirt (royal blue or deep, moss green) and a skinny black tie.
In reality, your best bet would be to wait until you go on holidays and pick up a straw hat. A Panama style suits most face shapes and beige straw will clash with very little. The more battered it is, the better (we suggest packing it in the centre of your suitcase between the Toblerones and your bottles of Spanish port).
