I spent some time in the south of France last summer, in Le Muy, with some day trips to Saint Tropez, Cannes and beautiful villages. My boyfriend is French and we stayed in a villa with his family, who are all great cooks and big fans of leisurely family-style dinners that stretch into the late evening.
The produce in that part of France is exceptional. There are plenty of food markets, and all of them are bursting with stalls of vibrant seasonal produce. The fish is caught early and local, and the markets are full in the early morning with people wanting to get the best seafood, meats and vegetables. It’s also incredibly warm and sunny in summer, so people aim to be back at home before the afternoon sun hits.
Apart from a constant supply of saucisson and fresh bread for afternoon snacks, the order of the day was to see what looked good in the market and devise a plan to cook dinner each evening. The barbecue featured a lot, but sometimes we kept it simple and light if the sun had tired us all out.
[ Three French dishes rooted in time and traditionOpens in new window ]
I remember the first time I ate beef carpaccio. I was in a restaurant in Dublin and I ordered it thinking that it would come with fresh truffle. What arrived was wafer-thin slices of beef smothered in a sickly amount of truffle oil (they are not at all the same and truffle oil doesn’t actually contain any truffles). My version is very simple and quick, and perfect for a light lunch or starter course. Be sure to get good-quality beef, and use a leaner cut such as fillet.
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The mussel and squid dish is very simple and bursting with flavour from the mixture of herbs, butter and cooking liquid. Crusty bread is essential to mop everything up. Be sure to use the squid tentacles too. Go to a fishmonger and ask them to clean the squid before you take it home, or if you are feeling adventurous, you can do it yourself. Scraping the squid tubes to remove the thin layer of membrane ensures that it’s not chewy.
Lamb rack always reminds me of France. If you have ever heard the phrase “French trimmed lamb”, it refers to removing the fat and sinew from the lamb rack bones. Agneau de pré-salé is French lamb raised in salt marsh meadows. I’d recommend trying it if you see it. Herb and mustard crust is a classic garnish for lamb, one I perfected when I worked in the Merrion Hotel 12 years ago. Courgettes and peas are at their best this time of year. Aim to buy fresh peas instead of frozen if you can, to give that sweetness and texture. The butter sauce goes with most meats and fish and can be made vegetarian by swapping the chicken stock for vegetable stock.
Recipe: Beef carpaccio with balsamic, aged cheese and rocket
Recipe: Herb crusted lamb rack with courgettes, peas and light butter sauce
