Monday, April 6th
A new day to start a new week and all who woke in Namche Bazaar were met with sunshine piercing over the ridge line of Thamserku mountain off to the east. Our core group is me, Jason Black, Adam Sweeney and Eanna McGowan and we’re all up and at it, even though Adam’s stomach was giving him bother. Eanna and I quickly grabbed a few bits before we headed off.
Today we hiked the 11km to Tengboche village. Along the route we got our first views of Ama Dablam and other godly mountains in the Himalayas. We visited the museum of Tenzing Norgay, the first Sherpa to summit Everest alongside Edmund Hillary back in 1953.
We were walking through the valley farther into the upper regions of the Khumbu with views back down all the way to Lukla, where we had first flown into a week before. On a clear day, we would have had a view of Everest but there was a lot of cloud cover, so we couldn’t see it. I found myself actually happy about that. It’s miles away yet. There’s no hurry.
The journey up to Tengboche Monastery saw us taking out the rain gear for the first time. A day that had started with sunshine turned into snowfall. It only added to the magic of the monastery. It stands there surrounded by a wall – made of stone, prayer wheels and Buddhist teachings perched on each pillar. I found myself separated from the group but only came to this realisation after I had walked the length of the wall, taken in by the magic of it all.
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Tuesday, April 7th
The morning in Tengboche could not have been farther from the evening arrival. Clear blue skies and views to die for. Ama Dablam, Lhotse (the fourth highest mountain in the world) and the almighty Everest stood tall above us. Worlds away but there they were. Snow was pluming off the summit of Everest. A quick check of the mountain forecast told us there were wind speeds close to 300km/h up there.
Dancing/hiking had started to become a thing among the group, so we created a playlist of mixed cultures that proved to be top class for the first two hours at least of today’s hike. I had planned to practice the breathing and pacing, but all that went out the window once the dancing took over. Sure, what harm does it do? I reminded myself this is all to be enjoyed. Easy to forget that sometimes.
We played Uno after dinner this evening and finally had to roll out the sleeping bags due to the cold. I noted a quiet mind this evening, peaceful. There is a lesson in there, I think. Laughter, dance, music and craic today were just what the doctor ordered.
Wednesday, April 8th
Rest days. No rush on a man this morning. Eanna, Adam and I made our way down to a little slice of paradise nestled away in the valley called Cafe 4410. Proper hot chocolate, coffee, cake. You name it, they have it. Almost felt like I was still dreaming.
This evening after dinner, as people slowly headed off to bed, only a few of us remained. We were huddled around a heater filled with dried-out yak dung. The conversation remained light and surface-level until only Jason, Adam and I were left. For the first time, we went a little deeper and discussed what this expedition means to us and our families.
I’m not here to give out group secrets, nor do I wish to speak on others’ personal beliefs. But this does come with feelings of stepping into the death zone where any slight mistake means just that – death. The risk that comes with this for our families at home. The worries of the possible outcomes. Where respect and ambition collide. Where the line of determination crosses into stupidity. And most interestingly to me, who draws that line?
Some of these questions, I felt, we answered. Others we did not. But after a final cup of lemon, ginger and honey tea, it was time to call it a night.
Thursday, April 9th
The group is getting smaller. We said goodbye to Conan Hewitt, Brian Harmon and Stephen (a German beast who had joined us) on Monday as they headed for Ama Dablam. Today, we waved off Liz Dwyer and Enda Wright, who are off to Island Peak. We aimed ourselves at Everest base camp (EBC), spending some of the time dancing again and pelting each other with snowballs.
For us four tackling Everest, this part is essentially a hiking holiday. That being said, I have developed a dry sore throat and there’s a pain pulsing in my right knee. I know this pain well. He has come to visit many times thanks to the years playing football.
The hike to the lunch point of Thukla was simple enough, and then a good hard push up from there brought us to what I can only describe as a valley of lost souls. I don’t know if there is even a name on this flat on which we stood beside monuments erected for the fallen, connected by Lungdar prayer flags.
I got goosebumps here. Whispers in my ear. How many are immortalised here? Did they all pass by the same spot as I do now, full sure they would come back the same route intact? This was the internal conversation I had for the remaining hours of the walk to Lobuche.
Tonight I laid down to rest my head in a spin. Partly it was from a pressure headache. But partly, too, it was this internal dialogue, whirring away until my eyes finally closed.
Friday, April 10th
Barry’s Tea to start, something that Sherpa Raj is becoming more and more fond of. Those feelings yesterday are a distant memory now after the night’s sleep. The body and mind are feeling strong again and now it’s time to march on to EBC. I filled the flask with some Nepali tea and away we went.
It was a six-hour day, maintaining a strong pace. Lots of passing yaks and horses kept the route busy. Base camp is the final destination for 99 per cent of travellers. About 40,000 people trek to it every year but only about 800 attempt the summit. It was a lovely moment to witness the success for the Dunne family, who had battled their way here with us, including 11-year-old Harry Dunne Blade.
We headed into camp itself. Everyone was feeling the altitude at this stage and it was time to eat and rest. But soon there was bad news. No wifi up here. We heard that it could be a week before it was sorted.
This turned the atmosphere dark. We are going to be staying here for the next few weeks. The prospect of not being able to talk to my kids or the other important people in my life set me on edge. I had made promises to stay in touch and now I cannot fulfil those promises.
The idea of putting additional stress on the kids was crippling. I had to remove myself and get into the tent before I allowed misdirected anger to destroy a relationship up here. It may sound like a hissy fit. It’s only the internet, after all. But I’ve been out of contact for two days now. It’s hard to take.
The idea of a week more without communication felt like a failure on my part. I tried my best to settle my mind and sleep but this really was eating away at me. I decided that in the worst-case scenario, I will venture back down the Khumbu to Lobuche so I can speak with them at home. Then I’ll make my way back up again.
Saturday, April 11th
A tough night’s sleep fractured between dreams, half-dreams, thoughts, avalanches and, in the morning, helicopters. Today, we said goodbye to the whole Dunne family. Now, all that remain are Eanna, Adam and me. Jason is walking back out with the Dunnes and then heading over to the Ama Dablam team.
Two massive avalanches have fallen on both sides of the base camp. You think that mountains are solid and consistent. You are wrong. You can clearly tell here that nothing is solid, nothing is guaranteed. In a couple of seconds, tonnes of rock and snow can change the landscape in front of your eyes.
That’s not what’s on my mind though. I have to figure out how to make contact with home. By hell or high water, I will find a way.
Sunday, April 12th
As bad a night as I can recall. Altitude sickness. Up all night vomiting into a container so as not to have to go out into the freezing cold or leave the sleeping bag. I spent the entire night watching the clock, praying for sunrise and some heat so that I could get out of the tent. Headaches, vomiting continuously, and some blood along with it.
Today, I tried to brave the sickness and stupidly played down symptoms out of pride or ignorance or both. I spent the entire day in a world of pain, barely able to lift my head. The joys of altitude – even with all the training, it still got me. Better now than later.
Tonight, I’m spending the night on oxygen. Tomorrow, we’re retreating back down the mountain for a few days’ recovery. This will pass.
Pádraig O’Hora is climbing Everest to support the Mayo Mental Health Association
