Go Ireland: Going down the country was an annual ritual in the days before package holidays. But Ireland's islands are still great destinations, write Achill fan Brian Blakeand Árainn Mhór devotee Fiona Gartland
THE FORECAST WAS doom and gloom as we packed the car for our annual trip to Árainn Mhór, or Arranmore, off west
Co Donegal. The aim was to have a relaxing weekend while replenishing our two daughters' funds and fruit supplies - they were both on the island to take part in a Gaeltacht course.
Coláiste Árainn Mhór, which has been operating for 25 years, manages to instil a love of, and a pride in, the language that was missing from my Peig-torture days.
The trip to Burtonport, where ferries depart for the island, is not one to be made in a rush. It is best to pace oneself, enjoy the lush midlands, the soft hills around Co Monaghan, before being exposed to the wilderness of the northwest coast.
Over the years we've taken various routes to the port, including one via Enniskillen and the lovely lake road around Lough Erne. We've driven via Donegal town and taken the coastal drive through Glenties and the sparse and lonely Lettermacaward.
This year we decided to take the most direct route from Dublin, through Ardee, Monaghan, Omagh and Ballybofey, skirting the Blue Stack Mountains: a leisurely four-hour trip.
It was not until we wound down from the slopes and caught our first glimpse of the jagged coast and the grey sky reflected in almost-still water that we felt we were really in Donegal.
We bounced our way along the undulating road to Dungloe and on to Burtonport and the car ferry. The hourly crossing cost €45 return for our car and three passengers. Those on foot can take the car ferry or, alternatively, the new fast ferry, which makes the crossing nine times a day.
On the way over we spotted the Three Sisters, triplet rocks jutting from the sea, said to be three witches who turned to stone on their way to the island but who move a little closer every seven years.
We landed after being lightly covered in sea spray, but there wasn't a sign of rain. The island seems to have its own micro- climate, sometimes sheltering the mainland and sometimes being sheltered by it.
The girls were there with their cousin, also at Coláiste Árainn Mhór, to meet us from the ferry. We checked into Claire's BB, or rather walked in through the open front door. Claire's is right next to the harbour. A bright, purpose- built house, it is probably the cleanest BB we've ever been in. From our bedroom we admired the dark Mount Errigal on the mainland, its peak crowned with mist, and felt the tranquillity of the island begin to invade our bones. Then we drove to one of our favourite spots, the lighthouse at Rinrawros Point.
The drive takes a winding road past boggy hills, where mounds of turf are stacked for drying and the island's sheep population grazes. We passed Lough Thoir, one of the island's trout-filled lakes, which features a memorial to the twinning of Árainn Mhór with Beaver Island in Canada, 4,425km away, a destination for many of Árainn Mhór's emigrants since the mid-1800s.
We've been told that the sea-fishing around the coast is good, too, and the many shipwrecks make the area a scuba-diver's paradise. For walkers, Slí Árainn Mhóir, or the Arranmore Way, is a treat of peace and wonder.
The wall around the lighthouse perimeter runs right to the edge of the cliff. We followed it across the mossy ground to reach a steep path to the water's edge. It was not a walk to be taken on a windy day, but the day was calm enough, so we slowly picked our way down to the inky water's edge.
Afterwards we ate at Bonner's restaurant near the harbour. The food is basic enough - fish and chips, burger and chips, vegetable soup - but they make the best pot of tea on the island. We finished our meal in time to leave the girls to the community hall, where the college's ceilí is held.
Our youngest went along, and we repaired to Phil Ban's for a pint. Opening hours in the island's seven pubs used to be somewhat relaxed, but in the past couple of years gardaí from the mainland have taken to staying overnight on the island during the summer.
When the ceilí finished we collected the youngest and said goodbye to the older two, then watched the purple-orange sun disappear in the direction of Tory, before disappearing ourselves for a sound night's sleep.
FG
IN THE DAYS before the Celtic Tiger, when foreign holidays - let alone the idea of owning a property abroad - were something you only dreamed of, most Irish families spent their summers at home.
Cars would be packed to the roofs, children - and often the family dog - squeezed in at the last moment, and off the family would set for the journey to a place known as "down the country". Depending on where you lived, this could mean a one- or two-hour drive to a nearby village or a much longer trek to the other side of the country, which became an endurance test of sorts.
Once chosen by your parents, this became the place where you went on holidays year in, year out, come hail, rain or shine - usually a mix of all three, given the nature of Irish summers.
These were the days before the package holiday, before the arrival of Ryanair and before people felt comfortable enough financially to blow their savings on a two-week break in the sun.
Now many of these places have become locations for breaks - a long weekend or maybe even a week, depending on the weather - rather than what people call their main holidays.
Achill, in Co Mayo, is one such place. In its heyday the pubs and hotels there would be thronged to the rafters during the summer months, but now it is rather quieter, ideal for a chill-out visit with the family.
The aforementioned Celtic Tiger seems to have bypassed the place, which can be considered a good thing when you see what unbridled development has done to some of Ireland's beauty spots. Thankfully, Achill retains the rugged beauty of the west of Ireland, and the scenery is a breathtaking mix of mountain and coastline, bringing those picture postcards of yesteryear vividly to life.
That's not to say that development hasn't taken place - it has, but mainly in a manner sympathetic to the local environment, which has managed to avoid crowding the landscape.
Apart from hotels and guest houses, there's a wide range of self-catering accommodation, with both houses and apartments available to rent at many locations on the island.
Keel is more or less the central point on Achill, but once you have transport it doesn't really matter where you stay, as the island, which is linked to the mainland by bridge, measures just 24km by 19km.
Much of what you do in Achill is dependent on the weather. When the sun shines - which it does rather more than you'd expect - you could be in a remote area of Spain or Portugal.
The island has some of the best beaches in Ireland, namely Keel Beach, Keem Bay and the Golden Strand, and plenty of wide open spaces to ramble through if hillwalking is your thing.
Even if the weather isn't as good as you'd hoped, beach lovers can hire wetsuits to keep the chill at bay, while walkers can don their waterproof gear before heading off into the wild blue yonder.
And there's always a driving tour of the island, visiting some of the best vantage points to take in the views along the well-signposted Atlantic Drive, particularly the Minaun Heights and Keem Bay.
If that's not enough to keep you and the family occupied, there's sea-angling, scuba- diving, horse-riding, golf, painting and traditional arts schools, as well as an archaeological summer school.
In the evenings there are plenty of bars to choose from, many of which serve a high standard of pub grub at reasonable prices and provide entertainment in the form of live music.
If you're looking for something more formal, there are also a number of restaurants specialising in local seafood, caught in the crystal-clear waters of the Atlantic where you went for a dip earlier.
Achill might not be everyone's cup of tea - or pint of Guinness for that matter, which seems to taste as good as it should in every pub there - but for a chill-out experience it's certainly hard to beat.
BB
Go there: Bus Éireann (www.bus eireann.ie) serves Dungloe, a short taxi ride from Burtonport. Aer Arann (www.aerarann.com) flies to Donegal Airport, half an hour's drive from the ferry at Burtonport (www.arran morecharters.com and www.arranmoreferry.com). If you plan to take your car on the ferry, it's best to book in advance.
Árainn Mhór essentials
Where to stayÁrainn Mhór has self-catering holiday cottages and a budget hostel, as well as a variety of bed and breakfasts, including Claire's BB (074-9520042) and Bonners Guesthouse (074-9520532).
Where to eatFood is basic, but good value, in Bonners Ferryboat Restaurant (074-9520532) and in Early's Bar (074-9520515). Otherwise, take the ferry to Burtonport and try the Lobster Pot (074-9542012) or Skipper's Tavern (074-9542234).
What to doApart from just enjoying the peace and quiet, you may want to walk the Slí Árainn Mhóir, hire a bicycle, swim at Leabgarrow or Aphort beach, go sea- or freshwater-fishing, charter a trip around the island for bird-watching and dolphin-, whale- and seal-spotting, or dive to see shipwrecks.
Where to stayThe Bervie. Keel, 098-43114, www.bervieachill.com. Charming guest house dating back to 1930s, tucked away between the village and the beach.
Where to stay, eat and go on Achill
Gray's Guest House.Dugort, 098-43244. Old-world atmosphere in a secluded location near the Golden Strand.
Achill Head Hotel. Pollagh, 098-43108. Midway between Keel and Dooagh, with good views of the bay.
Roskeel House. Keel, 098-43537. BB-style accommodation a minute's walk from the village.
Where to eat
Gieltys Clew Bay. Dooagh, 098-43119, www.gieltys.com. Tasty pub grub at reasonable prices.
The Beehive craft and coffee shop. Keel, 098-43134.
For coffee, snacks or lunch.
The Chalet Seafood Restaurant. Keel, 098-43157. Wide selection of local seafood.
Ferndale Restaurant and Guesthouse. Crumpaun, Keel, 098-43908, www.ferndale-
achill.com. Themed restaurant featuring a wide range of international dishes.
Alice's Harbour Bar. Achill Sound, 098-45138. At the entrance to the island. Try the seafood chowder.
Graceland Chinese restaurant and takeaway. 098-43828. For when you feel like a night in.
Where to drink
The Minaun View bar. Keel.
The Annex. Keel.
The Pub. Dooagh.
Lynott's. Cashel (opens at 5pm).
Masterson's Bar. Golden Strand, Dugort.
What to do
Achill Sea-angling. Purteen Harbour, Keel, 098-47257.
Achill Island Scuba Dive Centre. Purteen Harbour, Keel, 087-2349884,
www.achilldivecentre.com.
Calveys Horse Riding. Keel, 098-43158.
Achill Golf Club. Keel, 098-43456. This has a nine-hole golf links, for the golfers among us.
Achill Archaeological Field School. Dooagh, 098-43564,
www.achill-fieldschool.com.
Bádóirí Acla (sailing). Achill Sound, 098-36027.